The Literary Fashionista

JC Penney: 1 Million In Clothing for Iraq & Afghanistan Veterans

2010-09-30T08:58:00.000-07:00

JC Penney, in a partnership with Joseph Abboud, JOE, and IAVA are giving away $1 million dollars of men's and women's business apparel to 5,000 returning Iraq and Afghanistan veterans.
The last day to apply is October 7. Click here, and apply.

You can also read about six veterans who have already been furnished with clothing in exchange for promotional purposes. Their stories are compelling, and each is transitioning into the workplace after serving our country. Here's Treak Tulloch, formerly of the US Marine Corps. He's taken the skills learned in the Marines, and now works for the Long Island Railroad in Information Technology. He's proud for the time he served. You can even shop Treak's look!

Note: I wish JC Penney, Joseph Abboud and IAVA had included female veterans amid the six in their promotional materials. It's only after one reads the fine print that you see women are included. Also, I've wrote to the PR firm handling this campaign and have let them know the site is confusing. Hopefully, they'll reduce the number of click thrus, and people will just be able to apply directly onto the JC Penney site.

Roberto Cavalli and his Cher Moment: Milan, Spring 2011

2010-09-30T06:00:00.000-07:00

Rather, a platoon of Chers. Or maybe I should say, he's having a Bob Mackie moment. Bob would be pleased. Crap, they are scary. But mesmerizing.

Okay, I know you're saying, "Who wears this stuff? I can't wear this stuff to soccer games, this won't work for the when I negotiate deals, it just doesn't make sense."

Cher used to be able to wear the hell out of this look. Rockers girlfriends turned wives did too. Patti Hansen could still wear it. Forget about what's being touted by other bloggers as "hippie."

There's nothing hippie about this, save except for the missing macrame jokes. Nah, I'm dubbing this shredded-warrior chic. I think most of us would skip on the macrame bodices, but if there's on look to have, it's the fringe bag.
And a part of me really digs this kind of lunacy.
Watch the show here: Roberto Cavalli
Natalyia rocks it.

Hot Days of Los Angeles: Yes, We Shop At Malls

2010-09-29T08:49:00.000-07:00

I guess that pale white skin preferred by Korean ladies comes at the expense of looking like a welder. Found on the streets of L.A. as well as on Little Seouls.

Well, in the spirit of finding news on a hot, slow news day, the venerable California Apparel News called around to shops and malls during a weekend in Los Angeles when temperatures went soaring. Seems they found out what we all know: people will head to the malls when it gets hot, but for those retailers on chic, trendy streets --the crowd thins.

Anyone who has spent a summer in the tremendously hot and humid Savannah or anywhere else, already knew this. A dash to downtown will be walking store to store just to take in the air conditioning until one gets to their intended destination. People don't feel like buying because they're sweaty and the brain isn't working. If they're going to buy, they head to a mall or a megastore. I'm not kidding when I say the busiest places on a hot day are Wal Mart, Target, and a mall. People want to be somewhere for awhile, not dash in and out of buildings as though they were human targets for heat.

Ah well. That wasn't news, just a comment about leaning on the obvious on a slow news day.

So long Brad... You'll have a great solo career! And Handbag awards!

2010-09-29T08:15:00.001-07:00

So it would seem that the nattily attired Brad Goreski and his boss stylist Rachel Zoe have parted ways. At age 33, Brad says it's time he goes out on his own. He's right. In the American tradition of entrepreneurship, it's time he hopped on his own camel to find his own fashion oasis. Though Brad always seemed like a kid fresh out of college, it never dawned on me that he was a day over 24.

While there are many opinions about his talented and well connected boss Zoe, everyone seems to like Brad's calm decisiveness. What comes across through the lens of those obnoxious cameras is someone who can get the job done and not raise a huge fuss even though he is stressed. He'll have a long career in a town and industry known for histrionics. We wish him well.
Three pieces of business advice:

Take a good accountant along with you, who will keep you out of jinxes with the IRS! Never be late paying those quarterlies. If you have an employee make the payroll taxes immediately.
Cash is king. Never over extend yourself on credit and remember cash flow is everything.
Kevan Hall's studio is right across the street. Go visit! Debbie is a smart person.

Also, wanted to bring your attention to the 4th Annual Independent Handbag Awards held in NYC this summer. There were 900 finalists. The workmanship of the designers is impeccable, and these pieces of art deserve special attention. Click the link to see all the winners.

Catherine Walker Succumbs To Breast Cancer.

2010-09-28T00:01:00.000-07:00

My life has been so much war as of late. When someone like Michael Kors says "the military look" is in, I shake my head. For me, military is camouflage, guns, and dirt. In fashion, it's epaulets, brass buttons, and crappy old jackets that most veterans wouldn't wear.Anyway, but some things snap me out of all this military stuff. Fashion is always on my radar, even though most times these days, I feel so far away. But I have to mention this.

Catherine Walker has died at the age of 65 of breast cancer. The French-born designer made her life's work building one of the most respected ateliers in Great Britain. The client she is most well remembered for is the late Princess Diana. Well tailored suits and crisply cut day dresses became Diana's trademark as she made her way through official functions. Admittedly, some were almost treasonously campy, like this little get up, which she wore to an appearance at Sandhurst. Remember, this was the 80's, this was the time when Michael Jackson wore sequined military looks.

In addition, Catherine Walker designed many gowns for Princess Diana. Who could forget the "Elvis" jacket --the high collared white beaded jacket and ball gown? Worn, of course with a tiara. It later went up for auction, at a benefit for Diana's favorite cause --AIDS research. This was after her divorce, and shortly prior to her tragic death. When she wore it --once, because really, one couldn't wear a dress like this twice, it set off a stir. Beads...lots of them were in.

Catherine Walker was known for polished, tailored clothing that made women look elegant, rich, but most of all --pulled together. She could play with rich colors, do the military schtick, and camp but what she might always be remembered for is the designer who guided a posh country girl into becoming a modern, stylish princess.
So much for my hiatus.

Hiatus....

2010-09-27T15:24:00.001-07:00

This blog has been on hiatus for awhile now. I should have just tossed up a note, but things have been busy.

Fashion is important despite people's attempts to write it off. It's an expression of one's aesthetics, it's utilitarian, a central focus for people with common interests, and fashion employs millions of people around the world.
Right now, my writing focus in on other issues.
But please continue to support really great fashion writers (not the lousy ones) and also support American designers.

Like My Facebook Page; better yet, be a LIGER

2010-04-21T10:14:00.000-07:00

Apparently, we know have a "like" button instead of a "fan" button.
In other words, you're all now "likers."
However, I prefer that if someone "likes it" and "gets it" they can become LIGERS.

Yes, this is a liger!

Brave Fashionistas Needed: Dress This Man

2010-04-21T09:45:00.000-07:00

Jim Hanson needs your help! How do you go from Special Forces Weapons expert to new media military expert? Watch this video, see the plea! Only the brave will venture into Jim's fashion crosshairs.
Yellow pants? Plaid shirt? WTF? Town and Country look? Which country, dude?
(Put your coffee down before watching this priceless gem!)

Project Runway: Milla, Jay? Milla.

2010-04-16T16:56:00.000-07:00

Last night, we were all treated to an (almost) finale.
The judges' decision between Jay and Milla was the focus. I have to say, given the final three offerings, I think they made the right choice.
However, I was a bit baffled over Jay's choices. I thought the skirt that Tim looked at was much more interesting, much more so than the second look. It just isn't strong enough. Yes, I like the gaiters, but I'm just not loving the Battlestar Gallactia bolero.

While Milla gave us a her signature pattern of black and white, she has more of an editor's eye. Milla chose the correct three pieces for the win. I've always thought she was impressive, and in so many ways, held back by the format of the show. I'm glad she's in the finals because she deserves to be there.

People are blogging about Milla's attitude. The cameras are pushed in front of her, the producer might even be asking leading questions, and on top of this she's tired and worried. There's a lot riding on this, not the least of which are financial considerations. I'm sure none of the designers were able to carry their usual workload to bring home the bacon while taking part on Project Runway. Unless they had a legion of supporters, how they paid their bills is unimaginable. I know when Christian Siriano took part in Project Runway, he was supported generously by his sister Shannon and his Mother.

I'm willing to push aside any assumptions that outside of the reality TV arena she's as snotty as others are making her out to be. I think reality TV does some very bad things to people, one of which is to bring out their most animal instincts in the heat of a competition. No doubt, she's an intense person ---they all are. You have to be in order to get to the very top. Each of them just shows it in different ways.

Anyway, I'm happy that the final three all deserve to be there. I'm looking forward to the finale.

Ann Steeves and Abbie Rich: a great tradition of sewing and craftsmanship

2010-04-15T11:59:00.000-07:00

Nothing brings back my childhood than the sound of a sewing maching, the clinking of buttons in a jar, and the smell of fabrics fresh off a bolt. Growing up as the daughter of a seamstress, the first chalk I ever played with were thin, square blue or white blocks used for tailoring. Later when we got puffy chalk, I'd learn it was a precious commodity. What I learned then is that there are millions of small artisans that make up the backbone of the fashion world.

In fashion, we have a tendency to look only at the end product on the runway or store, and the big designers. But there are millions of small artisans and businesses that are also part of this large scene we call fashion. Today, I'll just focus on two, who you can find online.

The first is Ann Steeves, owner of Gorgeous Fabrics. Ann is not only a purveyor of fine fabrics, she's the real deal: someone who sews and can give you all sorts of advice when it comes to not only construction, fit, and yes --even taste. I've followed Ann for awhile now, always impressed by her ability to balance business, being a mother, and also being both a cheerleader and promoter of bespoke clothing. She's on Facebook, and even has a swell blog where you can follow her sewing prowess, and also participate in giveaways. Go to Ann's blog.

The second is Abbie Rich, an embroidery digitizer who owns Sew Dragon Designs. Abbie has designs from flowers to boots, and can digitize almost anything. Again --another strong woman who balances parenting, work, and also being a military wife. She's also a huge supporter of Autism causes. Follow her on Facebook, where she updates her new digitized offerings, also lets sewers know about free downloads available on her site.

Both provide a link to days that have bypassed for convenience, but not always a product of quality. Abbie and Ann's businesses also support others who sew or embroider to bring home the bacon. They are part of an incredible tradition of craftsmanship and artistry. I hope, someday Abbie and Ann can touch base. I think these two sewing divas would have a blast. I know for sure, we'd be able to hear their laughter all the way here in California.

Polyvore: Fashion, more addicting than Facebook

2010-04-09T15:55:00.000-07:00

When I was a kid, there were paper dolls. We'd cut out the close, making sure we didn't cut through the tabs, and change the paper doll's clothes. It was fun, and I always loved getting new ones. While magazines have always been able to photoshop combinations together, it wasn't until the last couple years we could do ourselves and have fun.

Now, along comes Polyvore, along with other sites. Polyvore is more addicting than Facebook, and takes you out of the zone of really giving a darn what everyone is chatting about. Working with online vendors, Polyvore puts at your fingertips thousands of separates from clothing to accessories, makeup to hairstyles, even interiors and other artistic flourishes.

My favorite --and really, if someone loves social networking, is where people ask questions about what to wear.

Q: I need casual outfits for work.
A: Business casual has to be well fitted and neat. Try to look competent, approachable and fashionable. Consider the shirt dress, which can be accessorized in a multitude of ways. Punch it up with strong colors and prints. A scarf --that versatile piece of fabric, can add zip to a hand bag and makes a convenient weapon of choice should you get annoyed. Shoes are usually best with a lower heel, especially if you're on your feet most of the day, and would like to avoid corrective surgery later in life. A big pair of sunglasses can hide a number of emotions, especially when the cubicle next door shows up wearing yoga pants and a t-shirt that says, My karma's better than yours.

Business casual by Kanani Fong featuring Tom Ford sunglasses

Items in this set:
Safari Wrap Dress, $765
Paul Smith Dress - Striped Wrap Shirt Dress, 400 GBP
Discount Manoush Technical-satin shirt dress | theOutnet.com, 270 GBP
Flower Ballet Flat - Green, $525
L.A.M.B. Zaila Sandal - Black Suede, $290

'
hat tip: Fashion Stake Blog

A Good Blog Takes On The Gripe Of The Old Guard Against Fashion Bloggers

2010-04-08T21:58:00.001-07:00

Fashion Stake talks about stuff that matters in the world of social networking and fashion.

They recently ran an article about a roundtable held by fashion editors from Elle, discussing what blogging has done to the print industry and the coverage of fashion. It's a very good discussion and I give them a lot of points for taking it on. It's a discussion that has needed to be had for a very long time, as fashion bloggers continue to grow in number, and standing.
Here's my response, which I've edited greatly from the original.

Everything is changing as revenues continue to plummet in print publications, and online ventures continue to attract free bloggers. If there is protest from those in the mainstream media, it's because the long and arduous journalistic path they took--from college to internship and beyond, led to a position of privilege. They got the best seats at a show, meetings with designers, a sneak peak at look books. All of this is seemingly genteel, even quaint as they find themselves jostling with upstarts at shows for front row seats, and with blogs by newbies that get more hits than their own in-house bloggers.

The blogosphere--for lack of a better word, has leveled the playing field somewhat. It's true that the print industry was the last to hop on the blogosphere. When they did, they simply applied the same principles to their blogs. The results were boring, petulant, self righteous blogs without any snap. Many publications and newspapers lost. With this in mind, Elle fashion editors shouldn't think they are the only ones with a gripe.

There is not a single area in journalism that hasn't changed be it fashion, politics, culture, literature, world events, financial, or art. These were the exclusive domain of those with traditional historical grounding and journalistic training. Now, for only the price of one's own time, anyone can voice their opinion. A few, even make money.

Elle Magazine's editor maximus, Ann Slowey, is correct. BryanBoy, the 17-year old bloggeristo who is garnering front row seats at fashion shows, has writing skills that aren't much. But, what this internet celebrity has is a way of tossing things on the page, and a voice people like to follow. He never takes the focus off himself. He comments on all sorts of things whether or not he's got the "story behind the story." For better or worse, PR staff for designers invite these internet celebrities because it's instant coverage, regardless of a lack of depth or integrity.
Never let it be forgotten that blogging is a form of conversation. So, in a world of 144 character tweets, what people are looking for is something quick, easy to read, catchy, snarky, playful, mawkish, and uplifting. It doesn't have to be factual, it can be rude, untrue and even libelous. The truth is, people want to be moved even if it's only for a second.
The downfall of all this "chatter," is the majority of bloggers (both bad and good writers) do it for free. For people like Ann Slowey, this is the downfall for anyone whose livelihood depends on content creation. Good writers have a bad time getting paid what they're worth and paying their bills.

That's a real problem for anyone with a knowledge that is deep, based on experience, research, and years of time devoted to the topic. That's what Slowey and her peers are facing, though she might not have done herself any favors with that lousy reality TV show. Slowey is by no means just the vapid, heel wearing, evil-posturing person the world was shown, week after week. (Sorry, Anne, I'm keeping it real). She's a journalist, who went through a tough program at Northwestern. She listened to every gripe of every editor, staffer and SOB along the path. I'll bet if you sent Slowey to some crap hell hole with a raging war going on that in a year's time she would know the questions to ask, the people to talk to, and she'd be writing about war.
But that's the difference between someone who is an editor at Elle, and someone who is only peripherally interested in the glitz of fashion. It's the breadth of what the journalist can potentially write.
I'm not saying bloggers can't too. They can. Some already do and they've changed the field. For instance, military bloggers have covered the war better or as intently as traditional journalists. One thing for sure, bloggers are here to stay. Eventually, the cream rises to the top. Bloggers are going to have to raise their game. There are a lot of craptastic fashion blogs out there. Not everyone puts into it what the good ones do -which is time and research, and the willingness to perfect their wordsmithing.
However, not everyone in the publishing industry will be able to stay in the game. They should never make this assumption. Only those who can adapt will be able to make a living. Some of those who have hiked the traditional path, might in fact be thoughtful, possess the knowledge and have an irreplaceable sense of history. But, in this nanosecond world quickly resembling a Tower of Babel, they also might also not have a voice that moves, excites, brings people together or energizes. They may not be able to cultivate or hold a legion of readers.
For better or worse, that's what stands out now.

The Eternal Style of Grace Kelly Features: vanityfair.com

2010-04-08T00:00:00.000-07:00

One of the things that a lot of people forget is that movie stars routinely had dresses designed for them by in studio designers such as Edith Head. Head, the director of fashion for Paramount, then for the rest of her career at Universal. She was responsible for designing for films ranging from musicals to the cool blonde look found in Hitchcock movies.

What may surprise a lot of people, is that Grace Kelly's entire wedding trouseau shown here, was designed and sewn by the costume masters at MGM. Watch this great slide show in this month's Vanity Fair.

The Eternal Style of Grace Kelly Features: vanityfair.com

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC: Cynthia Steffe

2010-02-13T00:42:00.001-08:00

English designer Shawn Kearny, designing for Cynithia Steffe has given us a modern schoolgirl look. Calling it, "military meets romance," the skirts and dresses are short, and the stockings were thigh high.

I'm really not sure what he meant by military, and this alone is enough to make me think they need to hire PR to handle the coinage of words. Still, it was narrowly saved from veering over to dowdiness by the details and pairings --jumpers paired and a cape with a fur lined hood, a silk chiffon dress with a pair of thigh high grey stockings, a furry zebra print skirt, a leather jumper with a striped black and grey sweater and a beret. There were definitely some winning separates in this collection. Though the collection at times seemed a bit too monotone in color, a youthful flirtatiousness was delivered by the flounce of the hems, the wispy hair, and stockings that wouldn't stay up.

Tribal Chic: Dries Van Noten for Summer 2010

2010-02-13T00:01:00.000-08:00

While we're looking at the offerings for Fall 2010, it's important to remind ourselves that the spring and summer lines are coming onto the market. Once again, Dries Van Noten shows us his mastery of mixing prints. Last year, it was florals. This year, Van Noten brings us a caravan of ikats from Uzbekhistan, batiks from Bali, banarasi silk from India and chinoiserie from China. The attention to pieces like these is found in the details. To give you an idea of how much work goes into these, watch his video on embroidery of an earlier collection. In a wild explosion of color and texture, the collection is one that most will feel comfortable in, even well traveled. From saris to sarongs, this collection is simple but luxurious.

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC: La Perla Lingerie

2010-02-13T00:00:00.000-08:00

La Perla showcased their collection of luxury lingerie on the first day of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week. Using the finest fabrics such as Leaver's lace, silk soutache, and frastaglio, La Perla's lingerie is for women who want to feel sexy, confident, and elegant. Styled with Veronica Lake hair, and a lipstick that took 3 years to find the right red, the girls were a siren call back to the 30's and 40's. Think Rita Hayworth.

A range of panties were shown. From high waisted briefs, boy shorts and thongs showed the same workmanship and attention to detail as the flowing babydolls, robes and transparent nightgowns.
The craftsmanship on their work is high. Each piece is handsewn, the fabrics are carefully considered, the designs are sophisticated. La Perla isn't shopping at Target for underwear, and maybe we should all splurge once in awhile.
Watch the video. Edward A. Nobody upstages the reporter, by showing he really knows his stuff.

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC: BCBGMaxAzria

2010-02-12T00:15:00.000-08:00

BCBGMaxAzria* helped kick off Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in Bryant Park, showing his Fall 2010 collection. Azria combined an updated tribal look with the clean geomteric lines. The diagonal lines were found in the bodices, skirts, the draping from shoulder hip, to the cut of the handkerchief hem. He kept the colors cool with blacks, greys, smokey beige dominating the collection. Glimpses of colors could be found in the sly peep of yellow along a hem, or indigo from beneath the belted tunic.
*Bon chic, bon genre

Online: Valentine's Dress -BCBG MaxAzria

2010-02-12T00:01:00.001-08:00

Available online.
First, the ultimate red valentine's dress. Small heart-shaped appliques adorn this dress.

In addition, BCBG MaxAzria is offering a pre-spring 2010 line which is sleek and structured. The squared ruffles and vibrant colors give a new twist for work.

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC: Duckie Brown

2010-02-12T00:00:00.000-08:00

Welcome the return of London 1980's. Only this time the grunge is back with sartorial exactness. Duckie Brown designers Stephen Cox and Daniel Silver have brought it all back, albeit with tailoring. However, this didn't stop them from having fun mixing plaids or using fingerless gloves. Tightly fitted pants, oversized top coats with wide shoulders, the topcoats and jackets were made of rich colorful weaves as well as shots of bright color. The big plaid jacket is back, modeled on the loud jacket your grandpa wore in the 50's. Not suprising, since grandpa's closet and thrift stores were raided with regularity in the 80's. The bright red cashmere overcoat is like a new, hipper version of Cary Grant meets horse and hound meets the GI Joe physique meets rockabilly.

The pants were paired with white socks peaking out over the top of big black boots. Like last year, Duckie Brown has a new hat. This one looks to be the shape of a fez with a bill. We wish they'd sell them online this year.

A blaze too short: Alexander McQueen, Dies at 40

2010-02-11T08:50:00.000-08:00

Access an online condolence book here at Legacy.com
In a short blaze of creativity and originality, Alexander McQueen has died at the age of 40. He was found in his London home just days before London Fashion week. No doubt, the week will kick off with a sad pallor.

His designs can only be described as theatrical, and ultimately as art. So powerful they evoke emotions ranging from awe, sentiment, and even the feeling that the world was less than cozy. As ethereal as some of his creations were, he could also be down to earth, showing us a side of rougher and darker edges. He was never afraid to show the world the totality of his artistic vision. But such is the role of the artist --to bring a slice of his perspective to the world in the hope that he touches and leaves us broadened, glad for the experience. Sadly, Mr. McQueen was far more fragile than anyone could have imagined. We have only to be grateful for his short time here with us on earth. Thank you for sharing your vision, Mr. McQueen. It was a beautiful run.

Memorable: Gaborey Sidebe at The Golden Globes

2010-01-22T22:26:00.000-08:00

The smile, the eyes. Gaborey Sidebe, who plays the title character in the movie Precious, is both memorable and moving. Miss Sidebe, who has been enjoying a well deserved round of red carpet events, looks smashing in fully saturated colors and isn't afraid to show off her curves. She loves accessories, trends, nails, has a full mane of hair. Gaborey Sidebe is lovely.

At the Golden Globes, Miss Sidebe chose designer Kevan Hall to design her gown. Hall dressed her in a flowing gown made of silk chiffon in a deep emerald malachite. Her waistband was encrusted emerald colored crystals, and her sleeves were gently billowy. The silhouette, pulled gently in at her waist, was flowing and correctly proportioned. Hall's dress represented a quantum leap forward for Miss Sidebe, into the world of sophisticated glamor, Hollywood and movie stars. Her accessories include a vintage Ascot clutch by Swarovski, and jewels by Kwiat.

In a very good article by Robin Givhan in The Washington Post, the journalist takes on the age-old debate about size, the fashion industry and perceptions of beauty. When asked about dressing larger sized women, Hall --with the wisdom gained from experience said:

...."it's all about picking the right silhouette for her shape.
And it doesn't matter if a woman is a size 2 or a size 16, "you're always treading lightly. I've had actresses who are a size 2 stand in front of me and weep. I've had young girls who want to cover their arms and older women who want to cover their arms," he says. ...it's always really about the client," Hall says."

Despite the lack of canopy over the red carpet, the downpour, and the raindrops that marked her gown, Hall's magic transcended the weather. Miss Sidebe was both enchanting and memorable.

Tim Gunn Offers Soldier Some Fashion Help

2010-01-19T18:12:00.001-08:00

On Dr. Oz, Fashion Guru and Project Runway leader Tim Gunn went on the show to help a soldier find some new clothes. The catch? This soldier served 4 deployments to Iraq and Afghanistan, a fearless leader, for sure. But last year, this mother of 3 lost her leg when and IED exploded beside their vehicle.

Her recovery at Walter Reed has been long and tough. In addition to the many challenges she faces learning to to utilize her prosthesis, she also faced an additional one. How to dress after years of wearing an Army uniform, wearing her hair in a pony tail. They went to Bloomingdales, and he told her to pick out anything that moves her. Good advice. Though it wasn't without at least one "hot mess!"
Who says Fashion doesn't have any heart? It's all heart.

Unfortunately, I couldn't find either the video or photos, but she looked LOVELY.

For Friday, A bit of romance, a bit of style

2010-01-07T23:49:00.000-08:00

A super song by Van Morrison, the absolute beauty of David Niven.
If this doesn't make you swoon or cry, really, go get your head examined.

Ah, look at the style. Those suits, those perfectly fitted dresses. Makes you yearn for a different time when people really dressed.

Fashion Dandy: Daniel Day Lewis

2010-01-03T00:01:00.000-08:00

Day-Lewis and his wife Rebecca Miller with Judi Dench at the London Premiere of "Nine."

Day-Lewis and his wife Rebecca Miller at the premier of "There Will Be Blood."

If there's one person who consistently upstages his wife, (and everyone else) when it comes to apparel, it's Daniel Day-Lewis. He doesn't so much "dress" as he does don a look as distinctive and as thoughtfully pieced together as his meticulous work.

Apparently, during the years when there was an absence of Day-Lewis on the screen, he was learning the craft of a cobbler. He learned to make shoes in Italy, from measurements to last. Now, someone who goes off and does that, already has an eye for fashion. But no doubt, he really learned how to mix it up while basking in the fashion lane.

Throughout his career, (even when he was in "My Beautiful Laundrette,") Day-Lewis has always had rhythmic way of moving and dressing. He's got an unmistakable air of confidence, a gleam in his eye, a cheeky but rather demure smile. Sure, this isn't what most people would wear to the Costco to pick up a kegger and pretzles, but when he has an appearance he goes for texture, pattern, color and fit.

Make no mistake: there's nothing tossed together about his look. For instance, the plaid suit that most people would have relegated to their grandpa's closet. Here, he pairs it with a pink shirt, an autumnal silk tie. And earrings to boot. The matching suede shoes. This isn't a look or a dresser to dismiss.

Even when he's going slouch, there's an unmistakable personal style. Here he is in a red mackinac, western shirt, paired with a fedora, jeans and a leather belt with a big old silver buckle. It's the pairings of the unexpected that make his dressing memorable.

How you can do this at home: Buy the basics. The red mackinac, the belt, dress shirts in basic colors, the black velvet jacket. Purchase jeans in varying cuts.

Then buy the odd piece --the western shirt, the suit, the striped pants. Remember, these are the pieces you have fun with and enjoy. Buy them at thrift and vintage shops, in clearance racks. Don't spend a bundle.

Then mix them up. But remember --you must have confidence to wear them. Not exactly attitude, but you must really love doing this and it has to show with every step that you take.

ESQ by Movado Sponsors A Wardrobe Makeover For Men

2010-01-02T00:01:00.000-08:00

ESQ by Movado is sponsoring wardrobe makeover for one fortunate man.
You can help by voting for Brian Schiele by going here to this page: VOTE FOR BRIAN!

Why he needs and deserves to win:

Brian retired after serving 21 years in the National Guard. For the last 8 years, he has served full time in the U.S. Army. Every day, he wore his Army ACU's, which really look like some kind of baggy pajama.

When he left the Army he had trouble finding a job in this economy, but now he has found one helping wounded warriors at the Veteran's Hospital. His only problem now is figuring out what to wear --not only to work, but after hours as well.

He needs to learn more about fabrics, fit, proportion and shape so that he has as much confidence shopping and dressing as he did when he served as a soldier.

The cool thing about this contest is that you can vote once every 24 hours until January 15, 2010.
So please.... VOTE FOR BRIAN!

A bit of ridiculousness to start the new year

2010-01-01T08:26:00.001-08:00

A Beadazzler run amok on a Spanx.
JLo ringing in the new year at Times Square.

Fashionista Tweeteristas

2009-12-15T02:02:00.000-08:00

I've been exhausted by this beast called social media. Blogging has been upended by twitter and Facebook. More to the point: rather than well written long pieces, everyone has succumbed to the instant fix. Very very good style writers are all now tweeting 140 character pieces in an attempt to drive us to blogs. The only problem is the stream or feed on either Facebook or twitter moves so fast, that there's a higher likelihood a catching trout in a stream than having your tweet noticed.

I was reading one of my favorite blogs, The Emperor's New Clothes. Fluff Chance was saying that bloggers are now the ones designers must consider. It's true, though frankly what's happening with social media is fewer are reading the blogs anymore. They're on Face Book and twitter until something new comes along. It's not easy to come up with something eye catching and alluring in 140 characters. But the person who can really do this well is also the writer who is capable of offering the world so much more.

Like everything else that has lost "the long form," what gets left out is a fair critique. It's like substituting reality TV for PBS, or YouTube for movies. So where does this leave young designers? Will they hold to a vision and learn where the lines of craft, art and commerce meet? Or will they forever be trying to design to the elusive and ever changing whims of taste saturated in ADHD? At Blog World Expo, everyone said that blogs are going toward video. And I'm not talking about bloggers with crews. No, it's the person with a hand help flip video walking filming, hosting, and editing themselves. Working in a bubble, as it were.

But that's the world as it is.
Those who will continue to write, will do so.
The designers will --like the writers, miss those times when a person could fashion a good article. They'll settle for live blogging and facebooking. They'll settle for photographers who show up and are never heard from again. The Social Networking we know today --will be changed next Spring. The people you saw in the front seat two years ago have already been relocated --mainly out. It's replacement journalism. It's not based on longevity, or on people who know about Vionnet, but on the ability to adapt at the speed of lightening until like a firefly --it burns out and perishes.
Let's just hope we all stay in business.

Black Friday and Other Myths

2009-12-11T15:30:00.001-08:00

One of the myths about Black Friday is that we need all the stuff the retailers try to shove off on us.
But the reality is that Americans usually have far more of the stuff that isn't life essential, and not enough of the stuff that sustains us spiritually.
But the "other" stuff is so much easier to get. You simply to to the store and buy it. The spiritual growth is hard earned. Plus, it's not easy to obtain or even maintain.
Which puts a gift giver in a quandary. What do you give someone who has everything? A trip to Tibet? (a little costly) Something hand made (well, really, unless you started in September, you really don't have the time to sew or knit something very easily. Besides, the key here is ease --giving something that won't stress you out).
Here's a hint: opt for usefulness and quality.
With this in mind, here are a few gifts you can give to that absolutely impossible person who has everything.

1. A membership to the Gaiam Yoga Club. This 12-week yoga on demand run by Gaiam featuring Rodney Yee and Colleen Saidman will help the person who has been curious but who is unlikely to ever step into a gym. Rodney and Colleen are amiable hosts, and the tips --even for the practiced yogi are invaluable.
2. Something (almost anything) out of the J. Peterman Catalog. Why? Well other than the crisp prose, the items from J. Peterman are very well made. They use high quality fabrics, and the workmanship is impeccable.
3. A truckload of mulch. That's right. Three or four cubic yards of mulch or soil with amendments. Because in every group of fashionistas there is one (or two) who is a fanatic about gardening. So make the calls --no, don't have the load dumped at their home, get some prices. Then pay for it upfront and tell them that your friend will be calling them when they're ready to take delivery. Deliver it to your friend in a basket filled with a collection of bulbs, seeds, or even some nifty new goatskin gloves. Won't a fine thing, when in the summer all the blossoms are blooming --thanks to your thoughtfulness.
4. A book. But more than that, make it a book they're going to enjoy. I can't tell you how many books I've received in the past that were of no interest to me in the least. Zip. Nada. Zilch. And so they would sit in my cases until ...well, until I gave them away.

Paula Begoun: Skin Care at 35,000 Feet

2009-11-23T05:02:00.000-08:00

It's the holiday season, and no doubt --more than one of us will be traveling to see family and friends. You know the feeling though of what all that containerized air does to you. It drys you out, and unless you're like me --constantly drinking water, using a saline squirt bottle for the sinuses and moisturizing eye drops, the traveling combined with the fatigue can be brutal on the body and skin.

Paula Begoun dashed off an email offering this advice for getting through the hustle and bustle of the travel season.

Paula's Top 5 Flying Tips:

1) It is indeed drier at 35,000 feet, but if you don’t have dry skin it doesn’t really matter. If you have dry skin and you are taking a long flight somewhere you may need to reapply moisturizer or a really good toner (loaded with state of the art ingredients not just water and slip agents).

2) Because of airport security Paula always has samples of products with her. Not every company offers samples of all their products, or even some of their products, but Paula’s Choice has samples of all products for you to try and pack in your carry on bag.

3) For long flights over 6 hours Paula travels without makeup. Just before she lands, she does wash up in the bathroom, follows he skin care routine and then applies her makeup. Her skin looks a lot better when she lands.

4) For shorter flights she does wear her makeup, but NO powder, Paula will apply her powder just before she lands, when she is touching up her makeup. This way she doesn’t have anything drying on her face during the flight.

5) A higher altitude in the outdoors does require a higher rated SPF, but in an airplane up in the sky not much UV light is getting through those tiny windows. What you normally wear for sun protection, meaning an SPF 15 or greater will do just fine.

Chako: Vintage Obis Rock The Handbag World

2009-11-22T17:46:00.000-08:00

La Petite Hangetsu, vintage obi and kimono fabric, $275. Folded envelope, $295.

In this day of the clonky handbag used more as a weapon or a piece of survival gear, finding something small and beautiful is quite simply ---fresh. One reason I love to feature handbags is that they are still one area where the craftsmanship by a single person may be found.

Chako, a handbag company started by a mother and daughter in Tokyo, is one place where each bag is handsewn. The elaborate brocades used for obis is re-used here for fashionable and unique clutches. The vibrant colors are distinctly Japanese, and meticulous folds and tufts are reminiscent of origami.

"A lot of man hours goes into creating these garments, many are hand-embroidered or hand-painted, however, most of them sit in people’s armoires for years without seeing daylight. We wanted to revive these fabrics and give them the spotlight they deserve. Our biggest strength is that every single bag is one-of-a-kind and as there are so many choices of fabric, colors and patterns, they suit a wide range of women (Our customers base range from the 20s to 60s). My continued inspiration for Chako is drawn from my 22 years of living abroad in various continents, absorbing new cultures, traditions, languages and how Chako can suit the varying fashion styles from around the world."

Its beginnings are as charming as the bags. The daughter asked the mother to make her a bag from an obi she found at an antique market in Tokyo. After relocating to Hong Kong, she decided to pursue the venture full time. Using vintage obi and kimono fabrics from Japan, all of their bags are one-of-a-kind and constructed by hand. Kozumi Lomri and Fusako Nakanishi are the mother-daughter team who started the business in 2003. Despite the mother living in Tokyo, and the daughter located in Hong Kong and Paris, the team has established a thriving and creative venture, and has been featured in The Financial Times, as well as Travel and Leisure and CocoEco.

Covering Charitable Events

2009-11-21T08:40:00.000-08:00

As part of its commitment to finding the "heart and art of fashion," The Literary Fashionista will cover charitable fundraisers that feature designers. If you know of one, let me know. If you run one, send me the details.

Sales at Haute Look

2009-11-21T08:22:00.000-08:00

67% off retail. Charmes by Royal Copenhagen, Scarves by Improvd, Handbags by Salvatore Ferragamo. Log into Haute Look!

Kevan Hall: Gowns Brought To Life

2009-11-21T08:10:00.001-08:00

I'm writing more later. (I'm late for yoga...well, almost late). It's Saturday morning, and I'm hoping the other photographs taken by the gorgeous amazon photographer surface this morning of yesterday's event in Rancho Mirage. The fundraiser for Gilda's Club Desert Cities for cancer support was a resounding success. Kevan Hall's show was the topper of what was a great day of shopping, friendship, and fashion.

Let's just say this: seeing these gowns brought to life from the hanger and mannequin to the runway on models was exhilarating.
Here's an example:

Kevan Hall for Cancer Support

2009-11-20T08:10:00.000-08:00

Today is a very special event at the Westin in Rancho Mirage, CA. Gilda's Club Desert Cities is hosting a fashion show to benefit their program which provides support for cancer patients with free psychosocial counseling. This life affirming program is named after the late comedienne Gilda Radner, with the intent that no one should face cancer alone.

Rolling out today's show will be no less than designer Kevan Hall. Hall, best known as the king of the red carpet, has dressed stars from Ashley Jensen to Vanessa Williams for venues such as the Oscars and the Golden Globes (and more!).

I'll report more, later tonite about today's event.

Jay McCarroll Fabric Designs

2009-11-16T08:42:00.001-08:00

"Germania" available by the yard at Jay McCarroll at The Colony.
Now this is fun. And if there's one thing that always separated Project Runway Alum Designer Jay McCarroll from the others, it's that there is a certain attractive whimy and fun injected into everything he does. From handbags, clothing, and now, fabric.

McCarroll seems work from some inner edgy whimsical place with an emphasis on handwork. Somewhere between comfort food, knitting, patchouli and running in fields of daisies, his designs keep us in a softer, kookier world. We're glad for it since McCarroll is the antithesis of the austere yawns gliding down the runway. One thing about McCarroll --he never pretends to be what he is not. He's a designer whose sense of design is organic and slightly homespun. He'll always follow a path of his own order.
The fabric here is available for only $9.50 a yard. Perfect for the home sewer who wants to put together a funky ensemble for spring. His descriptions are sassy and fun. For the pink fabric above:

"Somewhere in the valley of bed bugs bugging and kooky crawlers crawling lies a place called GERMANIA where facemasks and hand sanitizer are strictly prohibited. Come celebrate an infectious good time care of your hosts the nerggles, the gwarbbles and the gablobs. Who says all germs are bad?
Being clean is boring. Get a little dirty with GERMANIA."

Nerggles? Gwarbbles? Gablobs? Pure Jay, and that's why he's watchable and unforgettable.
Each time he expands his line, it's one more way of offering his world to the masses.

Of course, we know the impact of doing so can be great.
Take a look at one predecessor.
Vintage Mugs by Taylor and Ng

McCarroll's textile designs reminds me of the work of the late Win Ng, the artist, sculptor and graphic designer from San Fransisco, whose work held sway in kitchens for over 20 years in the 60's, 70's and early 80's. Working with his partner, artist Taylor Spaulding, the two produced kitchen textiles and mugs under Taylor and Ng. Their penwork included copulating bunnies, penguin orgies, sheep, elephants. Their work included "Le Chien" a giant friendly dog penned in black and white. Win Ng died in 1991, but his work lives on in The Smithsonian, The National Museum of Modern Art and other places. The McCarroll's work has the same slightly offbeat, but charming allure. By the way, I still have a very precious apron with a big sheep. It's worn, but I wear it every year I make my famous Christmas fruitcake.
Yes, fruitcake laced with Frangelico is probably in that kooky world of McCarroll's too. Or, I'd like to think.
Will kitchen textiles and mugs be the next place for McCarroll's homey designs? One can only hope.

Scottsdale Fashion Week

2009-11-05T23:32:00.001-08:00

Lada Gaga here she comes. Outfit by Zhao Bandi

Scottsdale Fashion Week kicked off its 3-day extravaganza of luxe goods and solid designers on the runways.

Leading Friday evening, will be the meticulous designer Kevan Hall, who recently impressed audiences with his designs inspired by the life and haute couture collection of the late Edith Parke Firestone. Hall specializes in creating highly detailed gowns and dresses in luxurious fabrics.

Zhao Bandi, also knows as the panda man will present his whimsical collection of tulle and taffeta outfits in a show that's one part theatre, most parts conceptual art.

Here's the line up, as of Thursday evening tickets were still available.

Main Tent Stage Runway Friday
Show Times (pm):
- 6:00 - Kevan Hall
- 7:00 - Zhao Bandi
- 8:00 - bebe
- 9:00 - Escada
- 10:00 - Dillard's with Celebrity Fashion Stylist Nolé Marin and Designer Eva Franco
Main Tent Stage Runway (Saturday)
Presented by Scottsdale Fashion Square
Show Times (pm):
- 6:00 - Banana Republic
- 7:00 - kate spade
- 8:00 - St. John
- 9:00 - CH Carolina Herrera
- 10:00 - Barneys New York

In addition, there are other shows at the Southbridge Open Runway. For more details go to Scottsdale Fashion Week.

Tis The Season To Be Sending!

2009-11-05T00:01:00.000-08:00

Age old question: What's better than receiving?
Answer: Giving. Especially to those who could use a boost.

Here's Panda (The Literary Fashionista's standard model-issue cat) showing the latest finds from Target, soon to be making their way to a small military hospital in Afghanistan. No, Panda isn't going, he's just treading the catwalk wearing the antlers.

Antlers --$1.00 each. Sure to bring a smile to the 15 medics, techs, nurses and docs who bring healing and compassion to the wounded and ill.

Summer sausage and cheeses --$4.99 each. Great for soldiers who spend much of their waking hours patrolling, running, hiking and taking care of the locals. Don't forget cheese spreaders and flexible cutting mats.

A leopard print Snuggie. Only because I couldn't resist. See 15 soldiers vie for the Snuggie!

The rest --magazines that get routinely sent to the house. Mail order catalogs, which provide an escape, including my favorites J. Peterman and American Spoon.

All lovingly packed into Flat Rate Boxes, free from the post office. Sent for only $11.99 to an APO.

See what you can do in one fell swoop at a favorite store?
It's really the most fun shopping of all.

Ralph Lauren: US Olympic Team 2010

2009-11-04T08:24:00.001-08:00

In just a short while, the Olympians from around the world will gather in Vancouver to ski, whisk, barrel, glide, and sled through the mountains. And once again, Ralph Lauren has been asked to dress the US Olympic team.

Lauren dressed the Summer team at the last Olympics. Once again, he presents us with a rather garish F. Scott Fitzgerald collection. But we're willing to cut some slack. Seen from afar (like from a bleacher seat a mile away) that brightly saturated red against the white will stand out.

But once again, he makes the women look like afterthoughts. The men? All the detailing in the world. But the women's outfits --not so much. "Toss on a turtle neck darling," no one will notice that the guy next to you has not one, but three layers on his neck. Women are not mini-me's. Especially Olympians.

This outfit is a throwback to another era, and I think that's what the problem is here again. Ralph Lauren is an American designer, but so are many others who offer a more contemporary viewpoint. This is too much an acting job --the precious driving cap, which he uses all the time. The polo pony logo is bigger than the Olympic rings. May we say NASCAR? I've seen this stuff before. I want outfits that tear the slopes.

Welcome HauteLook

2009-11-04T00:01:00.000-08:00

With the economy ever-changing, designers are looking for new ways to sell goods.

I'd like to welcome my new affiliate, HauteLook. HL is known for their 36-72 hour sales on designer goods. These blow out sales reduce brand new accessories and clothing sometimes by as much as 50 - 75%. Right now there's a swell sale on Rolex watches, Mackage for men and women, as well as clothing by JustCavalli. HL carries a growing array of quality goods, from childrens to housewares. They even have signed baseballs by Yankees, and seatbacks from the old stadium!

I'm picky when it comes to affiliates. Awhile back, I was a member of one --a big one that even paid, but I quit after big pictures of burritos became affixed to my sidebar! So I soldiered on, fashionista-ing away, until finally HauteLook came my way.

So do log in over there --it's free, and get those really nice pieces of clothing at a steep discount. Their sales last but a short time, and I'll keep you updated on what's coming up.

Coming Up: (Nov. 5) Bebe, (Nov. 6) Beyond Yoga and more

Alexander McQueen: Atlantis Reborn

2009-11-02T21:11:00.001-08:00

Okay. Now read this whole thing. Because a show like this ...a well thought out art exhibit deserves more than mere twittering.

When the young go to art school, they're either at their most daring or most contrived. After graduation, some get the art school beaten out of them. But not Alexander McQueen. He's always pushing the form: what can I do with the shape, how can the function be different, what inspires the shapes? These are the questions that fuel the restless psyche of the artist, whether sitting with clay, words or fabric. But first and foremost, what McQueen does is bring art to the runway. His work evokes emotions that range from fantasy, sentiment, power and even dread.

McQueen throws himself into his couture line for Spring 2010. He follows the theme of Atlantis. According to Plato, the place of great and powerful kings, the island of Poseidon and Cleito, an empire that fell and lost all its gods and warriors in one calamitous earthquake falling into the sea. And so, McQueen brings Atlantis reborn. Familiar, yet alien. Beautiful, yet at times disturbing because it is so different, and one can't look away.

The shoes are hoof like, yet they are not mere shoes. These are more like the feet of the children of submerged goddesses and warriors who must now trod on earth. Conceptual? Right here.

The detailing is intricate, as though these modern day sirens were emerging from a lost city below the sea. The fabric was digitally printed on silk, hence the ability to get sharp, clear lines, and the kaleidoscope effect when it came to mirror imaging.

I didn't want this to end. This is precisely the spirit I want all artists to hang onto, to delve into and find their creative treasure.

In the end, I craved more of McQueens vision, and more mysteries and secrets of his Atlantis revealed.

Watch the show.

Knitting: The New Cool

2009-11-01T00:01:00.000-07:00

Knitting is the rage. Legions have taken up kneedles to meet once a week to discuss anything and everything related or not to knitting. People have written books, blogs. There are knitters who tweet, who knit for charity, or for gifts, or just to play with the form and push it a bit.

These are from Diane Von Furstenberg's S pring 2009 line. It's a collection with tribal roots of some nomadic tribe that obviously passed through knitsville. You can purchase the mandarin red hat for $200.

What do I think? A steal. This piece will become a collector's item, if it isn't already. Or better yet, make it yourself.
What say you ace knitter, Bette?

Three Colours For Fall

2009-10-31T11:33:00.000-07:00

Ages ago, between the time dinosaurs roamed the earth and Paris Hilton grew up, I was an art student enrolled in a colour theory course. Our assignment was to go to the grocery store and pick out vegetables for their colour.

The richest colours of are found in nature. And while there is a trend to wear black (and most of us are guilty for having too much of it), a bit of colour --just a glint, can give style and depth to our outfit.

Maybe it's a persimmon scarf, or even a jacket. They're good eating, too. Persimmons range from a light yellow orange to a mandarin orange when they are ripe.

Purple --that powerful colour that ranges from the deep hues of eggplant to the more vibrant Iris is always a pleaser. And look --right there in the center of the flower appears its opposite --a vibrant gold. Who says you can't combine opposites? It's just knowing how to mix in some colours in between to make it mesh.

Ochre, one of my other favorites is always one that warms up the skin tones, and makes us feel secure. Like the two above, it ranges from yellow to orange ochres.

I leave it to you, as you pick our way through the accessories aisle. Remember, accessories are the easiest way to dress up an outift. So a pin, necklace, cuff, a scarf, a new pair of shoes, a knitted cap or maybe some leggings. Lots of ways to add that small punch of colour that puts a bounce in your step.

Blue Orchid Silk Scarf by Ronnie Woods exclusively for Liberty of London. Available online.

Slashin' The Pants Away

2009-10-30T02:38:00.000-07:00

For Spring 2010, one of the trends jumping off the runway again is the slashing of rather dull clothes for an edgy, road warrior look. Glop their hair with gel to style it into a razor's edge, accessorize them with a shopping cart replete with a rocket-propelled grenade launcher, a battered old robe, cans of cat food. Do this and one depicts what happens to the world of fashionistas when Citibank raises its rates on credit card holders to 30%. (One was heard to say, "That's usury!").

This slashing of clothes is something emotionally distressed teens are still doing, the worse are doing it to their skin. It might be a killer look, but it's creepy since the emotional baggage it conveys is un-approachability and life outta balance. This being said, art is a reflection of the world we live in so Koyaanissqatsi. Oy vey.
Remember, you heard it here first: No interest payments are the new sexy.

Thanks to Scott & Meredith of the indispensible The Fashion List for the photos.

Fashion Nerds 101: Their Backpack Is Your Birkin Bag

2009-10-30T00:01:00.000-07:00

Why am I showing fashionistas a photo of techie nerds?
Because, quite frankly, they rule the world.
I'm sorry if you didn't know this, but it's true. Their t-shirt, blue jeans and backpack is akin to your Chanel suit and Birkin bag.

Blog World Expo opened up my understanding of Social Networking.
Blogging is only one part of it, and frankly, this too is changing. According to Scott Henderson of Media Sauce, it's less about blogging per se, as it is the connections you make. While blogs tend to be a combination of personal diary, opinion, and the political, it's fairly clear that with the folding of traditional media, the gradual shift away from paid cable TV to internet, that the main mode of commerce or promoting a social cause will be --you guessed it, on the web.

No, it will never replace the corner bakery, the plumber or the person who makes clothes. However, the number of connections they can make in order to expand their business are uncountable. Twitter, Facebook, blogging all work together. Blogs are going to video, and those who still write are pressing to get in all the info in 500 words or less. The tweet? Convey desire in 140 characters or less (which includes a tiny url).

Gown by Kevan Hall, photo courtesy of
Kevan Hall Designs from the Spring 2010 Collection

How far we've come from the days of faxing. Recently, I met with Kevan Hall, who recounted that just a few years ago, bloggers weren't even given seats at the fashion show. And now, they're seated in the front row next to Anna Wintour. (Yes, Kevan... I remember straining my neck from the hinterlands long ago. The only fun thing about that was that we could misbehave and snicker if the collection warranted).

Is there a designer who uses social networking and online media very well? Yes. His name is Isaac Mizrahi.

The Red Lip

2009-10-29T00:01:00.000-07:00

The Red Lip. Was there ever any point for a different color?
The women who wore red lipstick.
They're legion.

Think Clara Bow, "The It Girl" rambling through the streets of a young Hollywood. Her pert red lips, those heavily made up vampish eyes. Imagine ravishing but silent Geishas serving tea to well to do businessmen before World War II. Or go back to Pre-War China, visions of women in cheongsams strolling amid the red rooftops of old Shanghai, carrying umbrellas to shield themselves from the hot sultry sun. Yes, think of them. But also think of my mother in a small farm town, applying Max Factor red with a brush.

Over on NYC Run, one of my favorite fashion blogs, he's caught a photo of a Manhattanite rushing to work smartly attired. But the most noticeable thing about her look is The Red Lip.

It's a look for winter and fall. Pale skin, a red lip. A dramatic eye. Pulled back hair.
But let's hope when she took off those glasses people stared at some heavily made up eyes, stood back and asked, "What may we do for you now?"
Just like Clara Bow.

Amazon.com Widgets

Arise Promise Of Africa Collective

2009-10-28T00:01:00.000-07:00

It is said that once you go to Africa, you never forget it. One falls in love with the landscape, the colors, the people --all those little things that make up its texture. Inconveniences? Many. My friend, a Kenyan who works in the Congo, describes a journey to see her doctors by taking a plane to South Africa. Yet, the land, the sounds and sights come to rest in one's senses to inspire the creation of new textiles and fashions that can be described both tribal and contemporary.

Arise Promise of Africa Collective showcased a rich melange of color and texture for Spring 2010. The collection featured the works of Jewel by Lisa, Tiffany Amber, Eric Raisina and David Tlale.

The clothes brought a deeper texture to fashion week. African textiles have long been esteemed for their earthiness, their organic origins which capture the sky, sun, winds, plains and the oceans from which they are borne.

Designer Eric Raisina, said, “My collection, Honeymoon In Madagascar, explores the cultural richness of the island. I’ve reflected on my memories of these adventurous people – rich in experience and complete with colours, forms, textures, flavours and songs."

From geometric and dreamy prints, deep ochre, jewel tones, crimson, orange and indigo, the collection rang authentic. These designs come deep from within, and tell a complete story.

Christian Sirriano to appear on Oprah

2009-10-27T11:52:00.001-07:00

Yes, this Thursday, Project Runway winner Christian Sirriano will appear on Oprah! His sister Shannon sent me the word yesterday, and I'm happy to see him doing so well.

On another note, this year at Blog World Expo, a blogosphere fact is that only 27% of bloggers make any money. This means that the other 73% are doing it gratis.

My real interests lie in promoting the creative process that fuels the designer. I'll always gladly speak to them, never expecting anything in return. Why? Because it's their generous nature. However, PR companies that want to sell something --like take for instance Overstock.com, and sends me a press release about some new bags ..what they're looking for is free advertisement.

But after speaking with a lot of people at BWE, this is all going to change.
The common wisdom was is that big companies with huge budgets send PR companies out with press releases to bloggers, they really can't expect that it's forever going to be free.

The Ascot: Only For The Adventurous

2009-10-23T00:01:00.000-07:00

Yes, that is Rick Rockhill, Palm Springs Savant. The bon vivant of the desert, and always a soft touch for animals. If you go to his blog, you'll find him reporting on his trip through Egypt, Greece, and Rome. And isn't it fitting that someone embarking on a trip to the ancient lands would be comfortable wearing a look that harkens back to a different time as well. You see, he loves the ascot, or a dress cravat.

Let's pretend you were in the Croation Army in the 1600's fighting the French in the Thirty-Years War. It's so bloody, that you take a piece of silk, wrap it loosely around your neck to shield yourself from sword blows and an entire fashion trend is taken back to Paris. Flash forward, if you will, let's say you are walking through Central Park. Your lady friend cuts her hand, as she stumbles onto the ground. Graciously, you'd take off the ascot, tie it around her wound. Guaranteed, you'll find her boudoir.

Over at The Tie Bar, they're saying Ascots are back in. Did they ever go out? Chivalry is and always will be in demand, even if it sometimes only whispers.

Also known as a cravat, a day cravat or a formal ascot, they're far more versatile
than its skinny cousin, the tie. Tie an ascot and stick a pin in it, or make a knot and a nice full dimple in the center. Then go out. Don't forget your wallet. Your Blackberry is optional, remember it's impolite to text during a date.

To be worn with formal ware, or with an open neck shirt and a jacket. Pair it up with a linen vest and a nubby cardigan with a cool pair of jeans. Ashton Kutcher wore won. Who is he? Oh, if you have to ask, then frankly, you don't need to know. I'm not sure anyone does, and besides, you have style enough to make it go.

The Best Catalog: J. Peterman

2009-10-22T00:12:00.000-07:00

Update: The LF finds an old flame. Read the comments!

If you don't get the J. Peterman Catalog at home, then you're missing something fun. Kudos to them for the smart cover. It has the style of those great old stores City of Paris, and JMagnin in San Fransisco when I was growing up.

Let's face it --this is the season we're inundated with catalogs, even though we shop online. Victoria's Secret --that's a regular, as is JGill, Crate & Barrel, and Pottery Barn. But there's always something special about J Peterman -- and quite frankly different.

First, the paperstock they use is better than anyone else's. This is heavy weight stock, holding makes you feel like you've got an invitation. This isn't something to be tossed in the bin, and indeed, I've gone to many a home to find old J Peterman catalogs saved as though they were --well, friends.

Inside, there's the quirky and romantic descriptions. It all beckons to some era that you weren't born in and never experienced, but damned if you wish that you were.

Women are mysterious, sexy and well traveled. They don't show up, they emerge. The men are well educated, urbane, adventurous and suave. Finally, tucked somewhere toward the end, they get into the specifics of the garment, but still --they can't resist getting in more description:

"Secret here, amidst the many small secrets, is our old friend the bias cut that does great things with shape. Lower calf length. Black cotton lining. Lots of dramatic details. Back is slightly longer than the front. It's full enough to flair when you feel like dancing. You'll lead. (As usual)."

Aside from the killer text, J. Peterman shuns using models or photography. It's all painstakingly written and illustrated, leaving everything to the imagination. Who can resist? Buy this dress and you'll be browsing in Paris, crossing the Kalahari on a camel only to be invited by a Nomadic Chief for hookah and tea.

FYI... I've purchased things, and they're well made.
That's why I love the J Peterson catalog. Because like the best fashion --it transports me somewhere I've always wanted to go.

Why Bother With Geekiness Expo?

2009-10-20T16:50:00.000-07:00

Technorati CEO Richard Jalichandra
Okay. There is something slightly goofy but appealing to see titans of technology wearing green t-shirts with suits and tennies. I know, it's baaaaddd.... but for the west coast this is the equivalent to the navy blue blazer, khakis and Topsiders worn with out socks. At Blog World Expo, this was the fashion statement from probably one of the most important individuals there! All things being relative, when in Rome ....

I wanted to give everyone a run down on the recent Social Networking conference I went to at the Blog World Expo in Las Vegas. Like many, I'm trying to figure out where all this blogging leads. As we all know, publishing is literally down on its knees. In the past month, Conde Nast has shuttered three magazines. No doubt, more will folllow.

The loss of ad revenues is just one reason, the other being corporate shake ups, golden parachutes --all seem to be on the periphery of the fashion world, but impacts a design house greatly.

So, what is the state of the blogosphere, and who should you be paying attention to?
According to Richard Jalichandra of Technorati:

- 72% blog for hobby/fun and don't make money
- 28% are professional bloggers
- 2/3 of professional bloggers are male
- 60% are 18-44
- 40% of professional bloggers have at some point in their life worked for traditional media
- 7% are actually still employed in traditional media
- 73% of bloggers use Twitter vs 14% of general population

Professional bloggers make their money from:

- display ads - 40% (up from 28% last year)
- Search ads - 39%
- Affiliate links - 36%
- Paid postings - 8%

But what I found out from Scott Henderson of Media Sauce is most people make their living from blogs by offering their own services (consulting, writing, editing) or products. (Henderson accented his attire with his accessory of choice --the black backpack).

Blogs are an important news source. The Technorati Top 100 is published once per day. It's interesting to note that most are either political or technical bogs. None are strictly fashion blogs, but many are celebrity gossip, entertainment and lifestyle blogs.

But stats are fickle. As Heidi Klum says, "One day you're in, the next day you're out." Nowhere does this apply more than to technology. In other words, many of the blogs we know today have a good chance of not being around tomorrow.

It doesn't take a rocket scientist to understand that someday small blogs like this will most likely fall under the aegis of a larger one as the blogosphere continues to evolve. But one thing was clear: for the first time in many years, the thing they're all looking for is content. Not just pictures but the people who can get the story, report it in an interesting way and run with it.

Breaking News Today: Jean Paul Gaultier to design a line for Target.

In Your Clutches

2009-10-17T22:09:00.000-07:00

Dress & Handbag by Brian Reyes

Bored. Large handbags emote ennui.
You know, that gigantoid thing slung unthinkingly over a shoulder, acting at times as a battering ram through shops and crowds. The other day, I got knocked in the back as a woman was passing. Then, I saw this same clod whap a shoulder-high kid in the face. How rude, how.... unaware.

But the most tragic, and I must say had I the heart to take a photo --was a bride standing in front of Paris (no, silly, Paris LAS VEGAS) in a wedding gown and gigantoid fake leather battered bag over her shoulder, but under the back of her veil! Quelle horrors!

For Fall and Winter, the nicest accessory I can think of (especially at night or for a dinner date) is the clutch. It doesn't have to be small, nor does it have to be portfolio size, but something just big enough for a small wallet, your PDA or phone, a bit of lipstick, and some cash. There's something very chic about walking into a restaurant with a small clutch, all eyes on you --wonderfully dressed, with a bag that fits on your lap, or beside you. Rather than that weapon that could flatten your date at the table in record time.
Bag by Diane von Furstenberg

So why the resistance? Maybe it's anxiety. That's right. You think something might happen --say you get stuck in a movie theatre and the lights go out. So just for the heck of it you toss in a mini mag lite. But it doesn't stop there. Water bottles, pens, 3 pairs of glasses, a hair brush, nail clippers, files, a book, your iPod, a GPS, a little black book in which to scribble life's injustices. In other words, you're prepared for emergencies.
You... are Super Woman with one giant badass handbag!
But do we need to carry all that stuff? Chances are, no. So give it a try.
Go with less, try the subtle and sexy look.

Amazon.com Widgets

Badgley Mischka Spring 2010: It's Vegas Baby!

2009-10-14T17:53:00.000-07:00

This week I'm in Las Vegas at the social networking and technology conference Blog World Expo. It's always amazing to see how many luxe goods are here --in contrast to the old image. But still what makes Vegas style is color, sparkle and silhouette. Bright orange, pinks, yellows never seem to go out. The fit? To the body, and toss in some beadwork, sequins --tastefully done, and you're there. Beautifully tailored suits, wonderful dresses both day and night or some light colored pants and a silk sweater. Vegas has many sides.
I'm going to leave you with this Badgley Mischka. In addition, I wanted to say hello to my new affiliate HauteLook. I'll be taking care of those odds and ends during lulls in the conferencing.

What's On Now: Michael Kors -Bold Without Muscle

2009-10-09T00:01:00.000-07:00

This isn't a Spring collection, but the offerings for Fall 2009, from Michael Kors. Blasting away from the economic doldrums, Kors takes a trip through the lobby of the Bellagio. Using hot pink, chartreuse and tangerine, his colors are a throwback to the years when America had muscle cars. Kors is a product of that time when design was bold and brash, such shirt dresses along with tunics became classics.

Kors has a bit of fun with this fur chartreuse hat with earflaps. But maybe it's here that his collection starts to miss the mark. I know my 6'2" son would love to wear it zipping down the hills on his longboard , or tearing the slopes on his skis. And it's this lack of insight that bothers me about this collection. He took a gamble with the colors, and then he pulled back, and went with his usual good taste and restraint.

Colors this bold are energy. But the vibe is muffled when paired with a more sedate camel blazer and grey flannel slacks. This is the guy who wants to be bad, but ends up living with Mummy in Palm Beach instead.

Highly saturated colors like this beg for a muscle cars, jeans and cigarettes. One like this Dodge Challenger. Kors should let the look develop muscle, some edge, flex a bit and exchange naughty for bad.

Ungaro: Lindsay Lohan's Three Week Branding Adventure

2009-10-08T00:01:00.001-07:00

Usually, I overlook snarky texts, but the ones I got from Paris had me laughing while standing in line at Targét. These little disasters were one of many seen on the runway this week at The House of Ungaro. In what can only be seen as a misguided decision to inject celebrity into the dozing design house, Lindsay Lohan was named artistic director.
Once again, celebrity falls short.
Lohan wears clothes, but designing and inspiring them is a different thing altogether.
But this move wasn't about design at all. It was about branding:

"In Fall 2005, the company is sold to an American High-tech entrepreneur, Mr. Asim Abdullah who wants to speed up the development of the company, through strong products and image." -From the Ungaro Website

Image. Okay, so Lindsay Lohan as the new image shaper for Ungaro. This
translated into heart-shaped pasties, a day-glo orange micro mini with a sequined jacket stolen from a cruiseship lost & found. For those with an I Dream Of Jeanie fetish, Lohan/Archs offered a high waisted hot pink harem pants with a matching bolero, finished off with a bandeau --on which a sequined heart has been tacked.

There's blame all around: Lohan for jumping at the offer, at Ungaro President Mounir Moufarrige for appointing both her and the new Chief Women's Wear Designer Estella Archs a mere three weeks before the show. A disaster this big has only one recourse. To start again, hire real designers and have respect for the artistic process and those who create it.

Fashion Bloggeristos: NYCRun Fashion & Style and the City Blogs

2009-10-07T00:01:00.000-07:00

Well, we all know about The Sartorialist. It's wonderful. I mean, what's not to love? He influences, uplifts, shows us people wearing the things that they love. In addition, I've been following two other photo-based documentarians of street fashion. One of them is NYCRun Fashion.

Like The Sartorialist, the writer possess a good eye, and apparently an easy-going manner with strangers who agree to be photographed. Actually, it might be said that those who spend time putting a look together don't really mind being noticed!

There's also Kamel's guide to Paris street fashion, as well as to the industry in Paris, NYC and London over at Style and The City. Kamel loves the art of fashion, and looking at the relationships between his subjects when there are group shots. Kamel captures joy, romance and sentiment. It's utterly beguiling.

For those who naysay following fashion, well, let's put it this way: Fashion is a big big business employing millions worldwide. From the designer's table, the ideas provide a compass for what we wear. From silhouette, to color --fashion is something that is in our lives whether or not we actively think of it.

That table full of anorak cashmere sweaters in different colors at Costco? Those colors were planned out years ago by our friends at Pantone, the cut was influenced from a designer who showcased it in NYC, London, Paris or Milan. And now, it's available mass market for you and me to wear. There are more reasons to document and feature it on blogs, than simply because it's a passing hobby.

Christian Siriano Spring 2010

2009-10-06T00:01:00.000-07:00

Sharp tongued, smart, creative and overtly talented people always have a following. Such is the case with Project Runway alum Christian Siriano. This autumn he showed at Bryant Park, and his collection came together exhibiting artistic growth and direction. He's here to stay --we always knew it. The collection was sharp with a distinct silhouette, and it had those touches of whimsy --the jut of a ruffle off to the side, the softly gathered poufs. Siriano's clothes stay grounded on earth with colors ranging from shades of the sky, to the fiery volcano of the gown on the left.

But this isn't just about Christian. For years, I've been following his very creative and as meticulous sister Shannon. She introduced me to Etsy, to baking giant cupcakes and numerous other cooking pursuits. Christian has a very supportive family. They saw him through his earlier days when he was living hand-to-mouth in NYC with nothing but talent, a vision and drive. The luckiest of artists have not only the cultivation, but the ongoing support of their family. This doesn't mean their path together was easy, or without those days when the beleaguered mother wondered where all this was leading, but the love has been there all along. We're glad to see their support is now paying off. There is nothing, nothing like seeing someone you love succeed at what they do best. As his mother announced upon her arrival at the tents of Bryant Park, "I am the Mother." Indeed, it's a good time to be a Siriano.
Please go by his sister's blog to see more about his show.

What's On Now: Duckie Brown For Fall 2009

2009-10-05T00:07:00.000-07:00

These hats are
1. An act of knitting gone awry.
2. A component of the Human Eraser Project.
3. An attempt to look like Shaun White in motion.
4. A homage to the 70's shag carpet of your childhood.
5. Something The Literary Fashionista must have for her 6'2" serious longboarding/skier son.

Hats and clothing by Duckie Brown.
This is the line up for Fall/Winter 2009, presented by 2007 CDFA Menswear Designer nominees Daniel Silver and Steven Cox. The hip urban hipwear consists of intricately pieced outerwear. Their styling trademark are dots of colors in hats, balaclavas and gloves. A dash of red or orange amid a black or grey overcoat and pants. Or a red jacket paired with a black pants. The look seems adept at crossing over from the streets to the slopes. Fun and fresh, Duckie Brown hits the target with a blast of color.
(The answer is #5)

From the Duckie Brown site. Mirth and beauty.

The House Of Dior: Pret-a-porter, Autumn 2009 Ready-to-wear

2009-10-02T23:24:00.000-07:00

The Bar Suit from The New Look, 1947

The name is synonymous with Paris. Christian Dior. Paris. Christian Dior. Paris. Growing up in a small town, I'd rush off to buy Vogue or sometimes go to the fabric store to flip through the pattern books. One day, when I was a young teen, a perfume model blasted me with Miss Dior. And somehow I scraped together enough money to buy a bottle, and it became my scent. "The New Look" was seen on movie stars --from Grace Kelley to Marlene Dietrich. I accentuated a lady's small waist, draped softly over the bosom, tucked in at the waste and flared out over the hips. It was paired with a pleated accordian skirt. This look has been and is knocked off by everyone today, from high to low pricepoints.
Today, The House Of Dior's architectural still pushes boundaries but stays artful. I always look forward to seeing what the venerable fashion house is doing next. John Galiano never disappoints. I find him fascinating, so perceptive and his ability tap into the spirit of Dior but update the classic shapes with theatrics and edge is mesmerizing. To see a great retrospective of the house of Christian Dior go to their website.

Anna Sui: Boho Chic for Now

2009-10-02T20:05:00.001-07:00

This is Anna Sui's line for right now. Fall 2009. Sui, who also designs a juniors line for Target, is offering an updated 60's and 70's look. It's the peasant look redone and this time it has more bounce and flounce.

Boho Chic, often used by stylist Rachel Zoe, combines soft, multi print fabrics with a looser fit, along with the requisite colored tights, and layers of jewelery --though located generally in one area. It could be the choker, or layers of long beaded necklaces, a pin or maybe a terrific hat. With this much pattern, keep the bling in check. Size-wise, the look is can be worn by women of many sizes and shapes. This panopoly of textures, pattern, and color accepts all body types. The fabrics range from silk satins, sheer cottons, sateens and knits.

Things to note: The return of the choker. But those with short necks should be careful! If you have a short neck, work on creating the illusion of a longer one by holding your shoulders back, working those shoulder blades down.

3.1 Phillip Lim, Spring 2010

2009-09-29T09:47:00.001-07:00

Phillip Lim segueways from color to neutrals and then to bold geometrics. At fashion week, 3.1 Phillip Lim unveiled his Spring 2010 line. Seemingly muted to tans and greys, the collection revealed intricate surprises.

Lim, one of the designers who has taken the runway and hearts by storm in the past few years, is known for his clean use of geometric lines. How he mixes basic colors, textures and shapes is what's of interest. They're layered, folded, tucked, and mixed. Dramatic culptural elements mixed in with delicate fabrics such as organza. It's doing the unexpected and making a pair of bermuda shorts from silk linen and then upping the ante by doing the unimagineable: folding the front over to create an artful look.

A simple look redone.

Things To Note: As always, it's the details that makes designer fashions stand out. It's not the big initials plastered onto a handbag or stickered onto a pair of sunglasses. It's the details that whisper originality and content.

The Literary Fashionista At Blog World Expo

2009-09-29T08:34:00.000-07:00

Well, ever since the departure of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, LA Fashion Week has turned into a giant crawl of information. Or maybe I should say sprawl.
From Santa Monica to downtown LA and to Burbank, fashion week is once again spread all over. So far I know I'll be covering the Gen Art show, The Gallery LA, and a few others who are HSM PR clients. I'm always grateful to the PR teams. They really pull things together for the designers. Anyway, smack dab in the middle of fashion coverage, I'll be a guest at the Blog World Expo in Las Vegas. This is a very important social networking and blogging conference of bloggers from across the country and around the world.

I'm looking forward to seeing what's ahead, and how all this can and will be applied by bloggers and PR teams alike. How all this tweeting, blogging and facebooking translates into actual hard dollars is going to be up for question. As ad revenues fall from magazines and newspapers, how can diligent bloggers catch some of that windfall? What do marketers look for in a blog? Does high traffic on a blog guarantee profits for advertisers and bloggers, or will that "donate" button be a permanent fixture. I'll be reporting live from BWE to see how fashion bloggers can take the leap from avocation to vocation.

Edith Nkwocha: African Couture

2009-09-29T08:16:00.001-07:00

The challenge with handbags is to find one that can be used not just with "a look," but several. In this economy, finding things that transcend trendiness is key. Thanks to the keen eye of those at Handbag 101, artist and designer Edith Nkwocha's handbags are being featured. Nkwocha, who hails from Nigeria and now lives in Andorra.

Nkwocha's pieces utilize hand-woven African textiles and high quality italian leather. Oversized, the pieces are well made. She categorizes her pieces as African Couture, but defines them as African hand couture art. Nkwocha offers this glimpse to aspiring designers:

"My greatest achievement is that through perseverance, tons of research, hard work, many setbacks and buckets of frustration, I have finally gotten to the point where people are not just complimenting me on my bags and jewelry but actually approaching me and wanting to both buy and promote them. It seems that innate creativity I mentioned earlier has been set free and not only can I breathe easier but now I also feel the sky is the limit."

Marchesa: Despite the creepiness of the video, see the details of the looks

2009-09-27T00:01:00.000-07:00

It seems at some point, every star who ever had to walk the red carpet has worn Marchesa. Started in 2004, by Georgina and Keren who met at Art School in the UK, the line is known for its extravagant draping, folding and embroidered detail. A major force in evening wear, Marchesa is a top choice for stylists.

This year, citing an Asian influence, the duo presented its Spring 2010 collection replete with the type of fanciful and subtle details one expects from leaders of the pack. Using silks, organza, tulle, and satin, the garments are one of kind. The type of stuff you often see knocked off but woefully inadequate when compared to the real thing.

I have to say though, that this is a slightly creepy video. The models are young, rail thin, and they look exceedingly bored. I guess it makes sense to put them up on pedestals as though they were museum pieces, but the dresses come most alive when their worn by women with womanly proportions and they're seen in motion.

Vivienne Tam: Vibrancy & Technology For Spring

2009-09-26T00:17:00.000-07:00

Never one to shy away from either color or romance, Vivienne Tam presented her Spring 2010 collection in NYC. The theme, "Butterfly Lovers" is China's Romeo and Juliet. But this collection of artfully printed silks with hemlines that hit above the knee and move gently, is anything but a love crossed tragedy.

Reiterating either the shape, the fluttering or the deep array of colors of butterflys, the collection was polished and exact.
In 2008, HP announced its collaboration with Tam who created the graphics for their small web browsing HP Clutch. This collection, which seems suited for the young, hip professional featured models carrying matching HP clutches.
Obviously, it's not known whether the HP Clutch will crash, causing fury for fashionistas who need their daily fix of vicarious shopping. Regardless, this was a nice nod to for both sides --for the runway more accustomed to seeing just bags, and for HP as well.

Things To Note: The trend continues with a nude lip and cheeks. Do make sure if you're going to pull this look off that you accentuate the eyes. Also, sequins are back with a Liberace Force. If you're going to buy that sequined jacket, make sure you know how to take care of it.

Penny Morell: Model, Fashion Editor, Filmmaker ...she was the top

2009-09-24T18:33:00.000-07:00

Over the summer, I searched for an old friend whom I hadn't heard from. If you know me, you'll know that my friendships span generations. I like people of all ages, and so when one drops off the radar, I worry. I was happy to find her, and dashed off a note. I got an enthusiastic reply, but was saddened to hear she had Lou Gehrig's disease.

Today I found out that friend Penny Morell passed away from ALS. She died in NYC, the place she always called home, even when she lived in Marina Del Rey for a few short years. It was prescient that she went home. It was where she was born, had started her long and fabulous career in fashion, has switched parking places with Calvin Trillin, had raised her daughter Samantha, and in the end, the place she returned and spent her last years. There is no denying it. She belonged not only in NYC, but to the great city as well.

Penny was someone I'd met awhile back through a writing program here in So Cal. She said to me, "You don't need to be here, you just need to write and submit your work." As a struggling novelist, she believed in my writing and my book. She'd read much of it, and even wanted me to help her get hers together. (It's a really fun romp that takes place in NYC). Anyway, we not only talked about writing, we talked about work, debt (she hated debt), books (we agreed Empire Falls was a much better TV show than a book), cars (at one time she had a Fiat), animals, husbands (she had a few), and paths. This year, I wrote her about The Hubs's latest trajectory as an Army surgeon. She was very excited. Tomorrow, over on my milspouse blog, I'll share what she had to say about Afghanistan. She was an incredibly cultured woman who traveled widely, had been at the forefront of women in corporate America, and did it all with panache.

Penny was an incredibly supportive person, always encouraging me to go forward. One thing I loved about her was she came from the generation who always asked and took interest in what you were doing. It wasn't the breathlessness that you find these days, the "Let me tell you how busy I am. " No, Penny wanted to know what was going on in your life. She had the absolute best stories. I loved it when she spoke about the poodles she'd owned when she lived in her large Greenwich Village house. One funny thing is that I guess she went out with someone, who dropped her when he figured out he'd always come in after the dogs.

Over visits, I was able to find out snippets about her life. She was discovered by Daryl Zanuck, became an Eileen Ford Model, an advertising executive, a Fashion Editor for Ingenue Magazine in the 70's, and a fashion film producer. At the end of her working years, producer of films that looked at the deeper meaning of life through art, science, and philosophy.

Penny was a woman of substance and of great style. One thing she did was have a friend help her and her daughter put together this website for friends to view after she died. There are several short films about aspects of her life, so go to her website as well. The link is below.

So here she is, the woman whose life I found inspiring. So please watch it. Here is Penny Morell.

A Widdle Bit Uh Bitchawy

2009-09-23T21:05:00.000-07:00

There are just some looks that have to be pointed out as not working. I mean, the following women presumably paid stylists. Some borrowed their looks, but they've all paid. Though I know their names, I'm not bothering to print them because more than likely, these looks are best ungooglable (new word).

These two are the worst of the lot. The white number is a cross between a vixen, a fairy and the good witch. I'm not sure if she had a matching broom, or a wand, but it looks like she's coming in from a gig as the sex ed teacher at Hogwarts.

Now, let's move to the little blue number...or do we move to her boobs? This is the classic example of a traffic jam heading down under. All that hair, the bling bling across the neck, then spilling down the cleavage. Plus all the ruching. She looks like she's going to make an appearance at Sea World. Give her a trident and a crown and she's ready for a dance with the Sea Monkeys.

Next up: These two. Okay, now, I know some people thought the little white number made quite
a splash. Well, it's a great dress, and she has the curves to fill it. But yanno what? She's the wrong person to be wearing it. Especially here. Why? Because it screams as loud as J-Lo ever did, but the difference is that this chickie has a lot less talent to shout about. "Look at me! I have a reality TV show!" Okay, we get the black and the white, the yin and the yang, the alter egos. But posing together, the two look like the reality TV posterchildren.

As for the second one --I'm not a big fan of plunging necklines that end in ruching. Why? It looks like her belly button is swallowing the dress. But there are other things that are off here. Some might say it's the angle, but really --it just looks like the fit is off. Plus, a dress like this demands a hairstyle and makeup with more attitude.

The first has the nomination for the Tara Award. That's the best use of beaded draperies for a gown.

The next one ...she's a beautiful older woman, who has decided to keep her salt and peppah hair. So ROCK it! C'mon, dazzle me, make an entrance, she's at a stage where she could pull any number of older Diva looks. Who doesn't know she's won an Academy Award, an Emmy, and who knows what else? Her dress shuffles when it should stride.

I can only surmise with the purple number, that the actor was being very nice when she chose one from the local middle school home economics class.

Lastly, there are just times when an idea that might come up at a party, don't necessarily translate into a good dress. The reality, is that as an actor your trips to the awards show might be numbered. So do something fabulous. Go for the major designers. Because many years from now, when you're no longer invited, they might remember this dress but they won't remember your name.

Stylist Phillip Bloch: A Night At The Emmys

2009-09-21T10:54:00.001-07:00

By the time I spoke with Phillip Bloch, he had ascended to Fashion Warrior, having given forty interviews in five hours. On Sunday, Phillip Bloch made a splash with his spot-on delivery as the fashion commentator at the 2009 Emmy Awards on Sunday evening. He was a wise choice as CNN's fashion commentator. Who better to ask than someone who has dressed Halle Berry, Vanessa Williams and Heather Graham for red carpet events?

Chandra Wilson is every inch the diva.

Bloch is the man behind the stars, the busy person who ensures that celebrities look their best. His goal is always to help them reflect their own style. In other words, what we see the stars wearing isn't necessarily all about the designer, or the celebrity stylist. It's about them, and that's the art and psychology of being a good stylist. For those who think stars only consult him for the big events, fashion styling has crossed over into everyday life.

"It's not only for the red carpet events, its in their everyday looks. Stars are being photographed when they go to the market, to the bank!" he said. When asked if he saw any trends from the runway being translated onto the red carpet he mentioned at Fashion Week in NYC, they'd seen a lot of fresh colors on the runway. Hot pink being one of them. "But, a hot pink dress on the red carpet would be a hot mess!" Bloch prefers to see bright colors as a "hot punctuation. A great scarf, a handbag, can give a new look to an old outfit. Trends are made to be seen in small doses. There's no need to scream when you can whisper."
Rose Byrne, whispering quite well. No fuss makeup, statement bracelet and earrings. LA Times.
The asymetrical neckline, meaning a one shouldered dress is also something to watch for. Along with "no fuss" makeup in nude tones, these are things to watch for. Other great looks one can pull from the runway and incorporate into your daily life is the the statement necklace. "It doesn't have to be black tie event to wear great statement necklaces. One can really pull things together. Pair it with a t-shirt, tank top, and jeans." Bloch talks about the "democratization" of fashion. "One doesn't have go to the designers. Great clothes at great prices are found at outlets, on the internet." In fact, Bloch pointed out that one can get a great statement necklace at thrift stores (vintage) or even H&M. "It's not like before. Mix things up!"

And what about that little purse seen on the redcarpet? What does the stylist-warrior insist his clients carry? "A cell phone so they can call their family, the car, their agent. A couple of dollars for tips, ID --not that they won't be known but you never know! Oh, and mints. I like Listerine strips, and often give them to my clients."

Which brought me to my next question, my big bugaboo, which is seeing people who aren't wearing the proper undergarments. Whether it's a too-small bra, panty lines under that Gaultier-knock off, or smuggling raisins, many people utterly disregard their foundations. "The stars want to look smooth and glamorous. Shapewear has gotten smaller, you can breathe! He favors Flexees shapewear, which can be found at a number of department stores as well as online. One thing to remember is that when buying shape wear is to make sure you know your measurements, and try them on before you buy.

Giuliana Rancic smooth, simple, and together.

Earlier this year, I watched him on a show called "Glam God." I reviewed it and mentioned that Phillip Bloch was the only reason to watch it. So I asked if there was a development plan for him to have his own show. "Fashion is so difficult to translate into a watchable show." He's thinking about one that will catch everything that he does. This includes his work with the Creative Coalition, which is an advocate for the arts. It's a cause he deeply believes in and also lives. Actor, writer, stylist, Bloch is far from a one trick pony.

Pantone Colors for Spring 2010

2009-09-14T14:11:00.000-07:00

Believe it or not, years in advance, the colors for housewares, paints, and clothing are chosen by a team of color professionals at Pantone. This is so manufacturers can start making the fabrics, and other materials used for all of the aforementioned.
Here are the Spring 2010 colors for clothing.
Keep an eye out for them in the collections being shown in NYC right now.

Diane Von Furstenberg: Queen Of The Dress

2009-09-14T06:37:00.000-07:00

The backdrop was a dreamy and romantic desert from a less war torn past created in the fiction of our minds. The palette created a mood inspired by from 19th Century Painter Sir Lawrence Alma-Tadema. With this, Diane Von Furstenberg presented her Spring Line at Bryant Park.

Dominated by a luxurious assemblage of golds, ochres, oranges, blues and reds, the collection proved that DVF is Queen of the dress.
These are dresses to be worn, loved, and like the pyramids, kept for the ages.

What to look for: longer hemlines, a layered effect, stylized animal or soft geometric prints, and silk that flows with each step.

Things to note: the multi-colored bangles along one wrist, easy-at-the waist cuts, long, but slightly tousled hair.

Don't forget: This is a great time to pick up pieces from Spring '09 on line at her site.

Derek Lam: Latent Wild Child of San Fransisco

2009-09-13T20:25:00.000-07:00

With the dumb demise of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in L.A., all eyes are fixed on New York City (actually, they always were).

He describes this collection as a patriotic, free for all, which makes perfect sense if you're like him --a child raised in San Fransisco, where patriotic took on a completely different aesthetic than say, middle America.

Nevertheless, Lam did not disappoint. Last year, Lam gave us a sharp, retro 1980's look. For Spring 2010, this year, the collection felt softer and somewhat 40's and 50's. The collection felt updated with a tinge of the old City of Paris store near Union Square and the funkiness of The Haight. Lam took a new direction from the blahs of the economy with a certain joie de vivre. What to look for in his collection: A kaleidoscope of colorful prints (stars!), neatly flouncing hemlines, soft necklines, high waisted pants and shorts.

This collection makes a potential wearer want to slap on a dash of patchouli while flying a kite on the Marina Green seems to be Derek Lam's bold venture into the fun zone....but only after traveling down to the Santa Cruz Boardwalk.

Final note: Don't toss out those Gladiator sandals. You'll need them to do your best Spartacus runway walk for round three next spring.

NEW YORK - SEPTEMBER 13: A model walks the runway at the Derek Lam Spring 2010 Fashion Show at the Promenade at Bryant Park on September 13, 2009 in in New York City. (Photo by Kristian Dowling/Getty Images for IMG)

Coming Up This Week:

2009-09-13T18:10:00.001-07:00

The Literary Fashionista interviews Phillip Bloch about his upcoming stint as fashion commentator at the Emmys.

Nominating Our Frenemies: Looking For The Worst Dressed American of 2009

2009-09-11T00:01:00.000-07:00

As if there wasn't enough self-flagellation one could inflict upon their self image, TLC has announced that Stacey and Clinton are looking for the "worst dressed person for 2009."

Okay, now excuse me, TLC? You mean you haven't found him or her in the vast archives of ClinStace already? Now you want viewers to rat on their friends, the brother who still has a mullet, the husband who wears THE WHO TOUR 1977 shirt like banner of freedom, or suck it up obligingly nominate themselves?
Or does one go after their frenemies?
So go ahead, nominate that coworker who rats on you every time they want to get ahead. Nominate the guy who asked you out, but then spent his time oggling the 40D's at the next.

Or better yet, find that blogger who argued with you on the blogosphere. Now, really, it's almost too easy --most bloggers are not the delicious strumpets they pretend to be! In fact, in a totally random and unscientific survey, most had wardrobes consisting of worn out yoga clothes or a polo shirt with crumbs.

Anyway, we're hoping that ClinStace don't resort to junk foods in order to weather the mountain evidence sent their way. We're hoping they don't warrant a visit from Gillian McKeith of BBC's "You Are What You Eat." Now, that could be wicked, but perhaps even a better show.

Read on. Reality TV has reached its nadir.

TLC'S "WHAT NOT TO WEAR" SEARCHES FOR THE WORST DRESSED AMERICAN

In celebration of its 250th episode, TLC's WHAT NOT TO WEAR is going on a nationwide search for the Worst Dressed American. For the very first time in the history of the show, viewers will be in charge of nominating the worst fashion victim ever.

TLC is still accepting nominations. For details, please visit:
http://tlc.discovery.com/fansites/whatnottowear/worst-dressed-american/worst-dressed-american.html September 25^th is the deadline. You can also upload video submissions at: http://bit.ly/RN1Tj

Candy Purse: An Artist in Texas

2009-09-10T00:55:00.000-07:00

I'm telling you. There's lots of stuff still made here in the USA, and among them are handmade accessories.

If you don't subscribe to Handbag Designer 101, then do! It's an update of the latest handbag artisans.
I was browsing through the daily reports, and this line popped out at me. Call it Joan Jett meets Cher.
Candy Purse by Candace Marquette is a line of handmade jewelery and purses. Her designer bags are painted, tattoed, and sewn. Not only do her hand bags exist on some cutting edge of fashion, they radiate the good spirit of their maker. Self described as a "punk rocker chic swagger" aesthetic (anyone who has gone to fashion week knows exactly what she's talking about), each are crafted of leather and adorned with her own jewelery.

Candace also has a great blog called Rejuvination Nation.
Price range: $50 - $350. At this point, why bother with retailers when you can have your own one-of-a-kind?

Left: Engrafted Branches Bag
Right: Vintage Blossom bag
Both are on her site.

Fashion Nite Out, and Blogging With Wolves

2009-09-09T23:56:00.001-07:00

Heidi....heidi...is that you? Taken by me this summer...
First of all. For all of you who have emailed me with invites and press releases, THANK YOU. I have read them all, and appreciate you keeping me in the loop.
This is one of those times I wish my life weren't quite so military, and I could get back to going to fashion shows, pondering whether to continue my quest to find French gloves made in the 1950's on eBay, or slip into my brainless wondering of whether or not this dress makes my butt look too big. But as overwhelming as I think all the changes are, all I can do is go with a flow, integrate what's come to me, and accept...yes, it's my life.

September 10. That's today. It's fashion week in NYC.

Rest assured, I've done my part in supporting the industry. I just ordered 2 new dresses, a necklace, a pair of Bermuda shorts, and a coat from Isaac's line for Liz Claiborne.

Other news: I have chosen. I can be a writer, a milspouse a fashionista ...and write about them all (maybe soon I'll be levitating). Since temporarily putting this beloved blog into mothballs, my life has taken an unexpected turn. I now have a Literary Milspouse Blog (Mil as in military, Spouse as in wife) called The Kitchen Dispatch. On it I write about how my husband's mid-life crises turned into his deciding to run away and join the Army offering his skills as a highly trained surgeon to our soldiers in uniform.Well, not only them, but he sees scores of children, locals and even some insurgents. By the way, I talk about writing, books, war and yoga. (If you must know, yes, the Army turned his 53 year old body into a buff one).

Anyhoo, the upshot of all this is that I now have friends with fun names like Laughing Wolf, BabaTim, and Thunder Run. Oh...darlings! You would LOVE this.
Anyway, I get off track...
Thanks to Laughing Wolf at Blackfive --the most testosterone driven military blog, I've been given a free pass to attend a MilBlogging Track at Blog World Expo in Las Vegas! How fun! Me and ex-infantry, special forces, corpsmen...
Ha ha... you get the drift. So I've been putting outfits together. It should be fun. Me in a sea of former Special Forces, Rangers, Seals, Medics and Corpsmen.

Operation Flip Flop: The Literary Fashionista is back!

2009-07-10T14:07:00.000-07:00

As you know, this blog went on hiatus because I experienced a life change that was stretching me emotionally, intellectually and even physically. It was time to recharge. On this life path, we pick up new things to carry along that reaffirm our humanity. I believe we're given opportunities for good in many ways.

Last year, my husband and I gave up his surgical clinic and practice in L.A. County to be an active duty surgeon with the US Army. He's assigned to a Forward Surgical Team in a country with a lot of sand. (I'm not supposed to say!). What he has found is confirmation of everything written. Geographically, it is a beautiful country. Historically, it is rich. The people are soft spoken, and they have very little. The need for basics is great.

What a lot of people don't know is the Armed Forces healthcare teams, along with the Special Forces and Navy Seals take care of the local population. When kids are seriously sick or injured, oftentimes they are brought into the trauma unit and their clothes are cut off. Many times what they have is threadbare, and often they have no shoes.

So I'm appealing to the fashion community, not because I think any of you have a lot of money, because I know if there's one thing in abundance, it's heart.

He's requesting flip flops, plain t-shirts (without brand names or slogans splayed across the chest), underwear, pants, shoes (for winter) and socks.

The kids are small --remember, they don't eat much. An 18 year old is the size of a 12 year old. So we're looking at toddler, childrens' and youth sizes.

School Supplies for Ten Kids

In addition, they also need school supplies. I just filled a Large size flat rate Priority Mail box( free from the post office)worth of $25 of pencils, rulers, erasers, chalk (not sidewalk chalk, the stuff you use in the classroom), small plastic sharpeners, two-pocket portfolio folders and spiral bound notebooks --enough for ten kids. I'll take the box to the post office and for $10.95, ten kids will get school supplies.

It's best to send a "themed" box. In other words, a box of flip flops in assorted sizes, a box of underwear and shirts, a box of school supplies. It makes it a lot easier to take stuff out and store when it gets to the FST. Make it an office project, decide on whether it'll be school supplies for ten kids or flip flops or shirts or underwear. Use the large size priority mail box free from the post office. Because you'll be sending to an APO address, you'll only be charged $10.95 (there's a $3 discount). If you've got inroads to manufacturers and can get something going, then drop me a line.

If you want to participate, please email me. The address is on the sidebar. Attached is a photo my husband sent me of a truck (because he's not allowed to send any photos of the base, and I won't post photos of kids unless given permission).

Amniat! (Peace)

Announcement

2009-05-22T17:25:00.001-07:00

This blog is on hiatus until further notice.

Anne Bowen: Soft Architecture and Jewels for the Modern Bride

2009-05-05T16:12:00.000-07:00

Fresh as a flower, The New York Botannical Garden wedding gown by Anne Bowen.
Once in awhile, a single wedding dress comes along so simple and refreshing, that one wonders why no one did it before. Anne Bowen's soft touch brings freshness, youth and approachability to a genre so often overwrought with clichés.

Anne Bowen's designs are strikingly American. Sleek, unfettered and strong, Bowen said the gowns were inspired by iconic buildings in New York City. The Chrysler Building, Tiffany, The Guggenheim Museum, The Empire State Building, The New York Botanical Gardens and even the Statue of Liberty is turned into a playful dress.

The gowns are softly but deftly structured, tucked and draped, Bowen uses luxurious materials such as taffeta, tulle, silk satin, organza. Swarovski Crystals adorn many of them. In addition, Bowen has also designed jewelery of semi-precious stones such as amethyst, Peridot, Citrine and Blue and Yellow Topaz to update the traditional all diamond wedding collections. Merging both modern and practical, Bowen said:

“My jewelry collection offers brides the opportunity to personalize their look on their wedding day and add a bit of personal style. Because the pieces are so non-traditional, there is no need to put them in storage after the day is done. My hope is for brides to wear the jewelry on their honeymoon, anniversaries and other occasions while reminiscing about that special day,” says Anne.
Stately and elegant, The Guggenheim Gown

Bowen's work is a refreshing step away from the razor edged and somewhat gloomy architectural shapes seen on the runway, as well as the ornateness weighting the racks at bridal stores. There is something iresistable about the approach the designer takes. The paring down of the gown to its most essential elements, puts the focus on the simple beauty of the bride.
For more of her work, go to: Anne Bowen

The Stylish Ulla's Birthday Celebration Fundraiser

2009-04-23T09:04:00.000-07:00

So the story is this:
Young German girl...dazzling, actually, meets nice guy from the US. Arrives in NYC with her Porsche Cabriolet. Only hitch: the guy lives in Alaska. So she does the only sensible thing a glamorous gal with the hottest car in America in the 1960's. She drives.

I'm having a fundraiser for my dear friend. The money raised will be given to her so that she can celebrate her birthday in whatever way she wishes. Please go to my store: The Easy-Writer Store.

A Bold Dash Of Color: Isaac Mizrahi For Liz Claiborne

2009-04-21T13:17:00.000-07:00

Isaac Mizrahi: It's not his clothes that make him lovable, it's his spirit.

Ah, the man's a distraction!
You used to know the drill.
Drive to Target for cleaning supplies or a lampshade.
Exit with a hot pink jacket and a houndstooth skirt. His bright spots of color and bold geometric prints were always a standout in the place where one could buy anything from diapers to motor oil.

Thus, when Target lost Isaac Mizrahi, a collective sigh went up. Though we knew we'd follow him to Macy's (after all, everyone graduates eventually), never again would be able to load a houndstooth jacket or a skirt with a big peony print into a big red cart.

But the news is good. The venerable fashion house, Liz Claiborne, hired Isaac to re-think their line. Liz Claiborne, most famous for stylish office wear, had gotten a bit out of focus with simply too many offerings. Was it cruise wear? Office wear? Stay at home Mom wear? One just didn't know, but we saw a lot of it on clearance racks.
Resin pin, part of the accessories line
Enter Isaac. Enter excitement. Enter whimsy coupled with professionalism. Enter style. Leave it to someone fun to straighten things out. Someone who --loves woman of all shapes, sizes and ages.

So what's the buzz?

A bright dash of color in an otherwise grey economy.
Zippy attire that cuts through the office doldrums.
Outfits not afraid to let a dame look like a smart stylish dame, comfortable at the bargaining table and later around the dinner table with old friends.
May we say Audrey? May we say, "Excuse me," and know everyone is watching you as you walk away? (Truman Capote would have smiled).

Recently, Isaac relaunched the line. Bold prints with flowers, a punch of saturated color juxtaposed against the simplest of white, big geometric prints on full skirts coupled with flats (because Isaac knows, we women have somewhere to go).

Stand out colors: Bright Pink, Lavender, Green and Yellow.
Most fun combinations: A full skirt with a single colored plaid pattern, coupled with a subdued grey jacket (Country girl takes the city by storm, smitten with Paul Rudd, dumps him for Viggo Mortensen).
Greatest accessories: The non-supersized handbag, the Audrey sunglasses.
Watch this video of the relaunch. For more of these fashions go to: Liz Claiborne
Sunglasses, part of the line.

Left/ Right: They Both Misunderstand The Mention Of Fashion

2009-04-16T23:17:00.000-07:00

This week I was supposed to share with you designer Anne Bowen's wedding gowns. That's coming next week.

Instead, I wanted to comment on something I've found both on the left and right camps.
A lot of criticism about the coverage of Michelle Obama's outfits during her recent trip to the G-20 Summit, as well as while visiting Her Majesty, The Queen.

It seems both sides consider any mention of her wardrobe unimportant -but for different reasons.
The left has decided that any mention of her clothing detracts from her acumen and ability. The right criticizes her for overspending and claims that it's retribution for Sarah Palin.

But did anyone doubt Jackie Kennedy's influence when she went to France with her husband and all anyone could talk about were her clothes and her demeanor? Did the nation think of her as less strong? I don't think so. Did we think Barbara Bush less of a spark whenever the papers mentioned her pearl necklace? No, we didn't. And has most of America forgotten that prior to being First Lady, Michelle Obama was a Harvard educated lawyer working as a healthcare executive? Chances are, she already had a taste for fine clothes, as well as a formidable wardrobe.

But both sides miss an important point.
There is huge talent here in the USA. The fashion industry supports millions of workers. Michelle Obama has the chance to showcase the best of our talent and also --if she plays her cards right, wear clothes made in the US, as well fashions made of sustainable fabrics.

Altogether, I find nothing wrong with the expert eyes of fashion stylists weighing in --even suggesting a way to pull a look together that's easy but professional and brings out her best features. We can all learn a lot. I like having a fashionable First Lady.

Get Inspired and Coming UP!

2009-04-10T20:21:00.000-07:00

Coming up: Anne Bowen introduces wedding gowns.

Kanani talks with Isaac Mizrahi!

Enjoy these photos. Get inspired. Touch, smell, feel, think and most of all ...CREATE!

An iron fence in historic downtown Savannah.

The canopy of trees leading to the tabby ruins of Wormsloe, the first fortified house in Savannah built by Noble C. Jones, a colonist from England and the first to settle these areas. Tabby is a combination of oyster shells, sand and lime. It was used for building foundations!

My cat Panda on a terrific blue and white cloth I bought in Jaipur. The rest of the stuff--is brick a brack I've collected over the years. The yellow walls were inspired by Barcelona. Nothing matches at my house. I just collect what I love. I think that's the best way to find inspiration --using what you find.

The Weave Of A Regional Style

2009-04-09T19:16:00.000-07:00

Charles Lummis House, Los Angeles CA

I think a lot of fashion bloggers get caught up in only looking at hemlines, hots or nots, and gew gaws completely overlooking the organic elements that inspire creativity. And even for those of us who do take them in, sometimes we become jaded or lose touch in a time when increasing homogeneity is dictating taste.

I think like many, I have been in Los Angeles far too long. LA is no longer a part of the west --it stopped being that after Charles Lummis died. And then Hollywood stepped in and gave us, well, a rendition of The West crafted by directors from The East. And so, the world of Lummis and even what had been taken in by Edward Hopper and later, Ansel Adams was banished in favor of actors and actresses dressed a bit twee, and even the rugged western archetypes were defined by actors from the east or midwest (with the exception of Clint Eastwood who's an Oakland boy and one of the great stewards of Carmel and Monterey).

And so it has been a pleasure to be in one of the gems of the south

--Savannah, which as soon as I can sell my house will be my new home. Odd, I know. I'm a westerner --a child of the delta surrounded by farmlands and rivers, a time and an era razed by the homogeneity of beige homes. I grew up watching orchards torn out for strip malls and creeks filled in for apartments. Though I can see, some of that has happened here as well.

With this anticipated move to Savannah, I suppose I shall follow the path of Joan Didion and be a Californian who misses what my state used to be, but is irrevocably attached to it despite the distance. Anyway, I have chatted too long. What does this have to do with style? Well, regional styles are sadly disappearing. But here in the squares and narrow streets of Savannah it's very much in evidence. Sure, there are the usual corporate entities --Outback Steak House, Urban Outfitters that produce a glazed stare. It's a mix that no doubt for the preservationists is one hard slog. But overall, I'd have to say that the regional style here is winning.

I see it in the old houses and buildings, in the E. Shaver's small book store (god bless independent bookstores), in the statues and yes --even the small cemetery I stumbled upon near Wormsloe. There is energy and optimism with the SCAD (Savannah College

of Art & Design) students. Here in Savannah, I hope to find my creative self all over again.

So enjoy the few photos I'm posting here of elements of the city I find refreshing. This doesn't even include the literature, food, air, flowers, trees, water, smells, horses, and grand homes. Nor does it include the tombstones, of which there are a great many!

But I have to say, what I like best is what I miss from my own childhood. People who will talk to you easily and naturally. Unlike L.A., where all they ask is, "What do you do for a living?" I love you California, but for far too long you have let outsiders define you. Good bye to all that.

What To Buy A Queen

2009-04-01T19:26:00.001-07:00

Cat bed --completely adaptable for Corgis, hand made in the USA available on Etsy

Giving a gift to a woman who has everything, including several castles, tiaras, scepters, and a yacht could prove to be problematic. I mean, the lady even owns a Wii. Hence President Obama gave HRH Queen Elizabeth an iPod.

Though this would seem to be unorthodox, the iPod is an iconic American item. It's not an MP3, it's an iPod. It's also very much an item of a particular generation, though this is not to say 80 year olds don't have them (which she does). From what I can tell, it might not have been an iPod Touch, which would have been truly cool. But really, he should have just given her a MacBook Air which has a bigger screen so she could see those photos more easily.

The accompanying song book from Richard Rogers was really first rate. Rogers... as in Rogers and Hammerstein, Rogers and Hart, wrote much of the music that people from her generation sung. In fact, the queen and her mother were friends of Fred Astaire who sang many of the tunes. So, this was apropos.

Rogers and Hart

But what else could he have given her?
Here are my choices:
A fine rocker by California artist Sam Maloof.

A Navajo Rug from New Mexico

A custom design and fitting by Kevan Hall

It's time....

2009-02-13T18:33:00.001-08:00

I so want to see a show.
I'm itching for the sound of thumping music as the models walk down the runway. I want to see the severe, the frivolous, the outright outrageous.
I so want to talk to the shoe designers who've contacted me.
And the jewelery designers.
So write to me. It's time. I'm back in the mood for fashion.

Dear Designers: Don't Give Up On Your Dreams

2009-02-03T22:41:00.001-08:00

Dear Friends,
This one is from the heart.
I know a lot of you are having a tough time in this economy.
Some have let staff go, the banks aren't loaning money. Others have cut back on expenses, and some are taking on jobs just to keep a cash flow. One person told me they'd missed that January 15 quarterly, and are wondering how to face April 15.
Believe me, I know how it is when you're feeling at loose ends and working to redefine yourselves.
But I really believe --despite the gloom and doom of the CEO's at this year's World Economic Forum at Davos that we're going to get through this uncertainty together.
Just don't give up on your dreams. You innovate and create beautiful things with meaning.

And with this, I leave you with a song from the late Jim Croce.

Young Designer's Dream Comes True

2009-01-20T19:54:00.000-08:00

Michelle Obama chose the gown of a young designer to make her debut as First Lady at the Armed Forces Inaugural Ball. The long white gown with a full skirt has a single strap over the right shoulder, ruching along the bodice and is embellished with sparkling crystals, bits of organza and silver thread. Twenty-six year old Jason Wu was born in Taipei and has lived in Vancouver, Paris and Tokyo. The designer, who adds a dash of youthfulness to classic designs, has been likened to Carolina Herrera and Oscar de la Renta. The graduate of Parsons interned with Narcisco Rodriguez and launched his line in NYC only two years ago, but has been involved in fashion since he was seventeen years old.
Light and flowing, the gown was so long the couple had to adjust their dance steps to ensure they didn't trample it! After tonight, the gown will go to the Smithsonian to be a part of the First Ladies at The Smithsonian Exhibit. Wu lives in New York City.
Enjoy his Spring 2009 collection.

The Inaugural Lace-O-Rama

2009-01-20T15:00:00.001-08:00

Whether she likes it or not, Michelle Obama is going to be the fashion icon over the next few years. I'm sure she'd much rather us pay attention to her promise to work on behalf of military families, but believe me, all eyes will be turned to what she's wearing. But I would beg for a bit of understanding: this is really cheap entertainment for those of us looking for low-cost means of escape during this dastardly recession. There's one thing for sure: the First Lady isn't afraid to take risks.

Keeping with the current fashion trend of lace, Michelle Obama wore an ensemble of guipure lace designed by Isabel Toledo during the inauguration. The coat and dress duo were accessorized by bling, olive green shoes and gloves, diamond earrings, ..and the awesome Lincoln bible. (The Literary Fashionista thinks knock offs of the Lincoln Bible will be available at Forever 21 next week).

The Lincoln Bible

There's some mis-reporting calling the outfit beaded or sequined. However, what's being mistaken as such is the off-white lining. There's also disagreement over the color --some are calling it gold, and others yellow. Isabel Toledo calls it "lemongrass-yellow," which is on-the-mark. On television it looked chartreuse, but time of day can have a huge effect on how it reads on television. Yellow is a good color. It's sunny, optimistic and yes, Mrs. Obama can pull it off. I think if she were going to wear it, however, she could have shot for a much brighter shade.

Guipure Lace

The dress was expertly cut and tailored, and the overall effect was stunning. But one unintended effect of so much lace was that it did look a bit bulky, or as Michael Kors would have said, "... a bit Matchy-Matchy." But hey....she's Michelle Obama. She worked it as she walked the most expensive, well guarded and elite catwalk of our time, the road to the White House. One thing for sure, like Nancy Reagan before her, she'll be good for the American designers and the fashion industry.

My hope is the great Kevan Hall will soon be called upon to dress the First Lady. Is there not a more obvious choice for a drop-dead red carpet look?
And their daughters? They looked fabulous. They looked like kids, and that's what we want. No children dressed as hootchy-mamas, or in skateboard hoodies as so often found in the 'burbs.
Mrs. Obama also looked great at the Lincoln Memorial in a more work-day outfit by Narcisco Rodriguez.

As usual, Laura Bush chose her look well. Wonderfully coiffed, the color gray was very appropriate for someone leaving office. She was always a classic dresser, usually understated. As First Lady, she was an example of a woman who wears her clothes, as opposed to one whose clothes have the run of her. Perhaps the outgoing First Lady has a more difficult choice in outfit: it can't be flashy but shouldn't make her look like she's going to a funeral, either. Barbara and HW Bush looked grand wearing purple scarves with their wool coats as well.

I know looking at fashion seems a bit trite. But First Ladies should represent the best of American Fashion. Their clothing also represents thousands of small business who provide livelihoods for employees.

Does Fashion Matter?

2009-01-17T19:05:00.000-08:00

(Left)Indian designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee (Center & Right) American Designer Matthew Williamson. Images courtesy of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, Spring line 2009
So welcome back.
The Literary Fashionista has been idle. It's been far too long since I've written anything about fashion.
I have no good answers except to say that the world events --wars, economic downfalls, bail outs and personal life shifts have taken much time. This isn't to say I've forgotten about fashion --rather, I've been thinking about it a lot.

I've noticed a few fashion blogs have gone floundering. Once strong and steady, their constant repetition of hot or not, rate that dress, aren't pulling in the numbers they once did. Nor does the commentary have the same original zip. It's as if a whole portion of the blogosphere has become rather lethargic, losing its way. Vogue and Elle are thinner as well. Which brings those of a more sensible streak to say things like, "It's only fashion," as in it really doesn't matter.

Does a shoe with a 3" heel, handsewn construction and leather uppers embossed with the pattern of crocodile matter? Or a dress hand-dyed in tea and embellished with bugle beads? A shirt made of organic fabrics dyed using a process using less water? Does anyone give a hoot?

This is the age of cynicism and doubt. There are wars and countries facing very uncertain futures. Terrorists have made their mark in places like Mumbai, and names like Al Qaeda and the Taliban have now entered our consciousness, yet few really understand the complexities of who they are and what drives them. There are people who've been fleeced by Bernie Madoff and now the foundations and charities they used to support are hurting as well. The result of this can be felt on a local level: in a conversation with the director of the Boys and Girl's club where my daughter goes after school, one of the foundations that funds them is down $12 million dollars. It's not one, but many Boys and Girls clubs won't get funded, which means tens of thousands of kids who won't receive the level of service they deserve. While one could put a spin on the economy and say "it's poised for recovery," the uncertainty of the times can't be camouflaged.

So once again, I ask myself, Does fashion matter?
In the sense of the competitiveness of unceasing acquistion --to those people it'll always mean something. To the group who are struggling between jobs --it'll mean a less as their priorities go toward shelter, food, utilities, health and transportation. People will and are making do with what they have. This isn't a bad thing --but a chance to decompress from the past two decades when buying and shopping supplanted other cultural interests.

I guess how it matters the most is when fashion is the means of expressing creativity to transform lives. Ideas turn into designs, which translates into jobs --from the designer to those who cut the patterns to those who sell the clothes, the industry of fashion supports millions around the world. That's hundreds of thousands of small businesses trying each month to stay (like fashion) in the black. Fashion as a reflection of the world and times we live in is akin to art, and later it's used as a means to document history.
Do creativity, history and art matter? Of course. As does fashion.

Men's Holiday Attire, Or Bad Things Women Do To Men

2008-12-15T00:21:00.001-08:00

Well, it's that time when the egg nog is hitting the neighborhood parties. Invariably, at any gathering there'll be some guy who was dressed by his wife, mother, girlfriend, sister, secretary. Chances are, he drags out these holiday garments once a year to make the womenfolk happy. Here's my short list of the absolute worst holiday fashion blunders that are best accessorized by a shot of whiskey and kareoke.

1. The Holiday Sweater
Never. The only people who can wear these and look apropos are school teachers, who seem to have an endless supply of these. This one was stashed under his "mossy oak" camouflage gear so that he could remember his manliness.

2. The Christmas Tie
Please don't buy ties that glow in the dark with images of the Virgin Mary, ties that play music, light up, or will make your guy look like Bill Nye the Science Guy. That is, unless you are Bill Nye. Then I suppose you could pull this tie off, but only with a stiff shot of whiskey.

3. "Oh, Christmas Pants, Oh Christmas Pants
How happy is your outfit?"
Can we get serious here? Maybe the man who is wearing these embroidered corduroy pants was talked into them by his wife. As in:
"Oh, aren't these fun! You have to try them on! The grandkids will love them!"
Or maybe not. Maybe he's an elf.
Unless you want to look like an advertisement for a or a Tree Sit-In or are trying out for the role of an elf, avoid these pants. That is, unless you're Carson Kressley. Only someone with his frivolity coupled with too many Rock Star beverages could pull these off!

2008-11-28T17:09:00.001-08:00

Due to illness, I have been unavailable for the fashion scene.
Check back in December. I'll be back!

The Sphere of Swell: Gowns For Mrs. Obama

2008-11-07T09:26:00.000-08:00

Photos courtesy of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, NYC

Dear Mrs. Obama,
(Girlfriend!! You're going to need some gowns. Yes, gowns! Was there anything ever MORE fun than going into a department store and trying on gowns ! Whoo hooo!!!)

First of all, let me say that we have never had two better dressed candidate's wives out on the campaign trail. Cindy McCain looked resplendent in a gold silk suit at the Arizona Biltmore as her husband gave the most gracious concession speech ever.

Now that I've gotten my non-literary shouting out of the way, stylists from are in a hot bid to be your dresser for the parties surrounding the inauguration. This is the most exciting day for fashion since ....damn, girlfriend... I can't remember one! But for your consideration, I've gone through the NYC and LA Spring 2009 shows and have pulled out three designers for your consideration. I looked for outfits that had a bit of color, and had the fitted bodice for a sophisticated silhouette to highlight those fine collar bones of yours. I've stayed away from black, since thousands of women will be wearing it. I have mixed feelings about red. You wear it well, but the red and blue have been worn a lot in the past. I'd like to see you go for the unexpected.

I've chosen cocktail dresses, as well as day into night. There's a nod to pants with a long tunic and raw silk capris. If you want to play with the look, wear a silver or gold fitted tank with it.
The white beaded gown by Badgley Mischka is a nod to the historic gown worn by Nancy Reagan designed by James Galanos. Kevan Hall, the master of the red carpet look, has some wonderfully glamorous looks inspired by old Hollywood and the designer Adrian. Any one of these will cause Mr. Obama to fall down in the hall way when he sees you turn the corner. Of course, we will arrange for the Secret Service to be stationed around him should this happen.

Since you're one of the few who can wear green, I've included one by Carmen Marc Valvo --a breathtaking color I'm sure no one else will be wearing. Green is the color of renewal, a nice touch for the inauguration. The floral print is one you could wear in the Spring, a nice complement to the cherry blossoms in D.C.

All in all, you're going to be fun to dress. When I think of fashionable first ladies (at least in my generation), two hit top marks in terms of influence, consistency and originality. They are Jacqueline Kennedy, Nancy Reagan, and the third will be you!
Yours,
Your girl who cleans her own house wearing Ralph Lauren,
The Literary Fashionista

Dressing The Future First Lady, Mrs. Obama

2008-11-05T15:26:00.000-08:00

Michelle Obama has the potential to be a great promoter of American fashion once she's first lady. But first, I have to point out that the dress she wore by Narcisco Rodriguez, was not a good choice. The dress was already dicey --a rather rarefied hootchy mama /flapper girl/ Star Trek theme. To tame it down, she wore a cardigan. The over all result was a dress that cut her off in all the wrong places. And the patch of red, like the underbelly of a giant animal character at Disneyland.

I won't dwell on it much --maybe she was trying to echo the colors of her daughters' dresses. This dress was such a strong contrast from her masterfully chosen purple dress at the Democratic National Convention designed by American designer Maria Pinto.

Michelle Obama is doing for the dress what Barbara Bush did for a strand of big white pearls. With her tall slim figure, she can pull off looks that are simple and elegant, while keeping it in check that she's in control without looking frumpy.

My recommendations: Stick with the American designers. If she can find clothing made here, all the better. Seek out young designers working on eco-friendly lines. Much of those fabrics are milled here, dyed here, made here. It's a win-win situation. Her designer of choice has been Maria Pinto, who worked for Geoffrey Beene. Pinto designs the sleek and classic silhouettes that her clients wears so well. Like Nancy Reagan and her collection of red suits, the future first lady would be smart not to deviate too far from keeping it simple. She should avoid the same mistake Hillary Clinton made when she wore a black Donna Karan gown that was too tight and had way too many peek-a-boo holes --during her husband's first term in office. (Fortunately, I couldn't find a picture of it. It is a painful memory.

No doubt, everyone from André Leon Talley, Anna Wintour to Rachel Zoe will have their offerings. But my advice is to stick to what she knows works best. She looks great in bright colors and bold geometric prints. She washes out in neutrals, and they age her considerably. Beware of suits. Often, they don't photograph very well, leaving the wearer looking frumpy. Mrs. Obama is such a great dresser already, she has the figure for to wear haute couture, there really isn't much point in messing with a formula that already works.

Review: Tim Gunn's Guide To Style

2008-10-30T22:48:00.001-07:00

One of the fastest rises to stardom in fashion world is Tim Gunn, co-host and designer confidante on Project Runway. Gunn has his own eponymously named Bravo TV show, now in its second season. Each week, Gunn and co-host Gretta Monahan give a "style counsel" to yet another fashion victim.

Gunn's rise to sartorial fashion consigliere is no surprise. He's unflappable and responds to a fashion crisis as though he were raised in the bosom of the late Washington Post publisher Kay Graham --here's the situation and let's get on with it. Gunn has the gift to clarify his likes or dislikes with a few quick words. He's like a favorite avuncular uncle whose presence is sought at holidays because there's something comforting about the glimpse he gives people over the top of his glasses -- though he's opinionated, he's always pulling for you.

Tim Gunn's Guide To Style has the pace of a university senior thoughtfully readying herself to embark on a new future. There's a predictable schedule of a wardrobe audit, and looking at the client in ensembles of her own choice with the usual critique. Then there's a visit to a fashion editor, then to a designer, shopping for foundations, shopping for clothes, hair, makeup, and then later --the final presentation which features Gunn as a cross between a town crier and Sister Wendy Beckett.

This show isn't the right vehicle for Tim Gunn. The pace feels plodding, and his natural professorial manner comes off like a very annoyed Henry Higgins. For a moment, you play with an alliterative phrase:

"The rain in Spain falls mainly on the plain"
turns to
"Hose, why bother with those -- to cover your toes?"

You can almost hear his Palm Pilot clicking away when he dutifully tells a client, "Tomorrow, you're going bra shopping." The cutaway gossip fests on the sofa with Gretta is enough to make one squirm. To paraphrase:

"She tried on the beautiful bras didn't like any of them," says Gretta.
Tim rolls his eyes and says, "I'm getting annoyed."

Tim Gunn's background in the fine arts with his degrees in sculpture gave him a knowledge of art & design. His experience teaching in the studio arts and as a dean at Parson's School of Design has helped him hone his skill at the art of the critique. A better vehicle might be watching him at work as the creative head of Liz Claiborne, or helping graduate students at Parsons work shape their final projects. With his breadth of knowledge, he's poised to do for modern art what he does for laymen to help them understand fashion. Sister Wendy hasn't done anything in donkey's years, and it's high time someone took her place. My vote is the avuncular and soigne favorite uncle, Tim Gunn.

Sister WendyBeckett(L)
and Tim Gunn playfully blessing blogger Louis Virtel in The Daily Iowan

Movie Styling: The Birds

2008-10-28T06:00:00.000-07:00

Rod Taylor, Tippi Hedren in The Birds
How bananas this?
Melanie Daniels goes to the sleepy seaside town, rents a boat and pilots it across Bodega Bay wearing a wool suit, high heels, gloves, a mink coat and her hair stays coiffed? Or Melanie Daniels stands outside with Mitch Brenner wearing a Lanz nightgown with her usual mink coat.

It's these incongruities that make me love Alfred Hitchcock's "The Birds." From the fast repartee between Tippi Hedren's Melanie Daniels and Rod Taylor's Mitch Brenner, to the styling. A mossy green suit, carefully coiffed hair, and coral lipstick on both Tippi Hedren and Jessica Tandy are the main touches of color in a movie that's predominantly greys, blues and black. Rod Taylor wears trim suits, and pulls a bit of suave cosmopolitan with a heavy fisherman's sweater with a not a cravat --but a folded silk tie or scarf wrapped around his neck. And the car --an Aston Martin convertible lends a certain carefree elegance as Melanie Daniels careens on the country highway road with the lovebirds leaning into the turns. Through his styling, Hitchcock managed to place his smart set characters in rustic places they didn't belong.

Melanie's iconic green suit matched the lovebirds.
Mitch wears a pair of permanently creased pants.

Favorite line:
Mitch: "Get some water, antiseptic and water, quick. Kathy, get some brandy."

If you found yourself a bit stumped over the ending, here's an interview with co-writer Evan Hunter on what the original ending was supposed to be. Maybe it'll show up in the remake with Naomi Watts and George Clooney. Though frankly, no duo can come close to Rod Taylor and Tippi Hedren:

Quick break: Sarah's New Clothes

2008-10-25T20:39:00.001-07:00

It's been reported that the Republican National Party budgeted for Sarah Palin and her entire family's new clothes. Apparently RNC's shoppers spent somewhere in the neighborhood of 130k. Both Republicans and Democrats wonder how this amount could be spent in a relatively short time. Were it Paris Hilton, Mariah, or some other media sensation we could understand it. But this is a politician, and we just don't expect anything other than a frumpy boxy suit from Talbot's. But let's go over what things can cost in the world of fashion (if my husband is reading this, he's instructed to turn off the computer now and stay away from my closets).

Couture: Mrs. Reagan's beaded gown

by Galanos, 1981

Though it's been noted that a Republico named Jeff Larson was her personal shopper (he billed and was paid almost 5k) it's less clear whether or not she used a stylist. (What I've seen so far has been hit, miss or yawn). If she has, stylists charge a broad range. A wardrobe audit and day of shopping can cost a client thousands. Of course, the more well known the client and the event, the bigger the stylist. It's reported amongst bloggers that Rachel Zoe charges anything from $6-10k for her and her staff's services. It would make perfect sense to hire one. This isn't just walking over to the 7-11, this is a high profile race where every day is a media op.
My pick for day: a Devon Trench Dress by Ralph Lauren $998
The purchases were from retailers such as Sak's, Barney's, Neiman Marcus, Lord & Taylor, Atelier, and Bloomingdales. What isn't reported is that the DNC probably paid for clothing for Michelle Obama and her family (and by the way, she looks smashing). The full shopping list for the Palin family is here.

The 130k included accessories, foundations, day wear, evening wear, day into evening, and jewelery. In terms of cost, a day dress or even a skirt can easily cost over $1,000. A men's suit 3k -8k. A pair of shoes, $700, boots $1200, a blouse $600. A trench coat another couple of grand, and evening wear --well, let's put it this way. Nancy Reagan's dress for the 1981 inaugural was $10,000. By now, I'd expect you could triple that today. There's also hair and makeup. I'll guess some clothes were bought "to see if they'd work out." She might not wear them and they may be returned by the shopper. Pity the poor sales associate rejoicing in a commission, only to have a chunk of that $49,000 from Bloomingdale's returned! (Note: For the 4900k they spent on Palin's hair & makeup--I'm not crazy about either).

My pick: Peterson Mermaid Gown by Ralph Lauren, $5000.
Would work on Michelle Obama

Factor in three - four changes of clothes per day for photo ops, speeches, lunches, dinners, plus additional clothing for family members, the hair and makeup charges, dry cleaning, the special garment bags and cases, and you can see where it can all add up. Yes, it does boggle one's mind, but remember there are people who run in to Jeffrey NYC and will purchase a pair of $800 shoes, a $12,000 handbag, $600 jeans and the list goes on. A $25k spree in an afternoon isn't unheard of.

I'll assume they chose a lot of American designers. Indeed, Michelle Obama has been photographed in dresses by one of my favorites --Donna Ricco. This can be a boon for the American fashion industry, more so if the pieces were made here, though we know the chances of that are uneven. It'd be great to have see them wear a sustainable organic line. A lot of those pieces are made in the USA using organically grown and milled fabrics.

True, in this time of economic strife when many have lost substantial amounts, as well as jobs, it's hard to relate to the expenditure of 130k when you're worried about your mortgage. In addition, this amount runs counter to the image they were so enamored with --the outdoorsy housewife governor more comfy in a denim shirt. What will people relate to? Her or her clothes? Nevertheless, throughout the centuries, clothing has always been important to those who are in power or are vying for it.

(Far left) My pick: Talon Dress in Rainbow Room Black & White by Diane von Furstenberg.
$625 (would love to see Michelle Obama in this)

(Right) My pick: A great weekend day look for Sarah Palin. Stretch wool jacket, $1795, Fur scarf $1995, Melton Pencil Skirt $119.50, Sleeveless turtleneck $89.50 by Michael Kors

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Shots

2008-10-20T15:32:00.000-07:00

Behind the scenes shots, not much goss to share.

Tulle & Cloth Logic: Fresh/ Lana Fuchs: A Runaway Buffet

2008-10-19T23:09:00.000-07:00

Tulle & Cloth Logic offered its Spring 2009 palette of restrained colors with a fresh and detailed collection. The collection was heavy on short skirts and cardigans, along with styling of toned down Amy Winehouse hair. A cute, nipped in the waist silhouette and a subtle touch in the mixing of prints. Good finishing detail in the petaled skirt and the short coats. It's a look for a young sprite, one who gets weekly pedicures, has a small shih tzu, drives a vintage Mercedes, hangs with a shaggy boyfriend and causes people to wonder, "What do they do for a living?" But once one finds out, they often wish they hadn't.

Lana Fuchs presented a range of cocktail, evening, and ball gowns and closed the runway with a wedding dress. From little island-inspired numbers and butterfly prints to overworked ball gowns that looked like they belonged at a nouveau-riche Russian Imperial Disco. The collection was like a Las Vegas buffet: it offered something for everyone and in the end, one felt a bit overwhelmed and wished for some editing and a sharper focus.

Kevan Hall: Garbo & Quiet Glamour Redux

2008-10-13T21:02:00.000-07:00

I could report on prints, silk chiffons, of drapes, tucks and silhouettes. But Kevan Hall deserves more than that, for last night, he brought relevance to the runway in his showing of his Spring 2009 line at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in L.A.
The imprint of economics and wars on one's psyche is undeniable. Fashion is often a way to compartmentalize. However, more often than not we are foiled because life isn't a series of tidy rooms, but a montage where elements work --and sometimes collide, together. Yet for all the worldly woes, there is beauty and art to fortify us in the hardest of times.

The mood outside of fashion week was subdued. Photographers worried about selling their prints, writers spoke of lay offs. Everyone had a story, and what we hoped was that what we were about to see would elevate us, would provide a break from the sturm und drang. He'd done it before with his exuberant show of dance and fashion inspired by Africa. He beguiled the press with his elegant red carpet gowns on the most famous of women.

So we sat in the hot sun, smelling the fires ride in on the driving Santa Ana winds as we waited for the main doors to open. We waited again in the tent to be let into the Main Stage. We found our seats, and as we waited for the show to begin we read the notes left on our chairs. It seems Kevan was inspired by the Hollywood designer Adrian of the 1920's through the early '50's. Adrian clothed Norma Shearer, Greta Garbo, and Katharine Hepburn. He was the man who said:

"When Garbo walked out of the studio, glamour went with her, and so did I."

And so he left, married actress Janet Gaynor and went into retirement in Brazil. His heyday was before WWII, and yet, decades later, we still find ourselves immersed in wars and human struggles. Perhaps this was apropos.

Finally, the lights dimmed. And then, a single model appeared and waited. She stood there, poised but not moving, and the poignancy of the moment was driven forth by the fine strings of the viola, followed by the violins in music both somber and beautiful. This wasn't the pony trot, as the woman said next to me. This was serious music. Given the times, it was fitting to have this soulful and at times tragic music in juxtaposition to the silk chiffons and elegant evening gowns before us. The day and evening gowns were intricately pieced, the bodices well fitted, the necklines ranging from plunging to ruffles. While other designers continue to clog the runways with little black dresses, Hall's use of color --coral, yellow, electric blue signaled a nod to to spring and offered a departure from the expected. The intricacy of the piecing created highly structured yet flowing silhouettes. The coral colored see through silk chiffon blouse with the puff sleeves and ruffles on the bodice was a nod to the days when Adrian dressed Hepburn and others. It was a decidedly feminine but restrained collection.

The result was a visceral because it was so finely attuned to life itself. This was Paris, it was Berlin, it was Casablanca. It was a girl showing up to a party hoping to be kissed, a woman saying goodbye on a train platform, a doyenne daring anyone to get close. It was love, yearning, and pathos. It was the signature of a designer masterfully working as a conductor taking the audience on an emotional journey. While Adrian might have been his inspiration, this sublime updated collection, was entirely his own.

All photographs courtesy of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Los Angeles

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week L.A.: Designer+Celebrity=Papparazzi

2008-10-12T08:26:00.001-07:00

Today, the usual scene from Mercedes Benz Fashion Week will begin. One of the more interesting rituals for observers is watching the pack of papparazzi kneel seven inches from a celeb's face, trying to get sound bites in a few quick seconds. And perhaps nothing is more bizarre than seeing the phalanx of cameras descend upon a celeb sitting in the front row of a fashion show, moments before it starts.

Yet this ritual is as old as Marilyn Monroe at the Mocambo. It works like this.
A public relations person will work with a designer and invite celebs to their fashion show. The celeb will usually get a huge swag bag and an outfit. Fortunately, the celebs probably already have worn their clothes, so there's going to be a style compatibility already addressed. The celebrity confirms, the PR person then sends out their list to IMG (the fashion week people) who put out a wonky Press Release as such with "Confirmed Celebrities:"

Kevan Hall, the Main Tent (4:00 PM)

Contact: Serene Cicora, HSM PR, (serene@hsmpr.com), 323-651-5506

• Confirmed Celebrities: Emily Van Camp, Jody Watley Candy Spelling, Julie Benz, Gina Torres, Anthony Hamilton

• Award-winning designer Kevan Hall will be unveiling his highly anticipated “Stage Door” collection at this season’s Mercedes Benz Fashion Week at Smashbox Studios

Suh-Tahn, Stage One (6:00 PM)

Contact: Contact: Amanda Levy (amanda@maylevypr.com) and Katie May (katie@maylevypr.com), May Levy PR

• Confirmed Celebrities: Karina Smirnoff

•The inspiration for Suh-Tahn’s {Inner Workings} Fashion Show stems from the collective California lifestyle. The Project C collection takes a deeper look into the construction of a garment, as the internal workings are made visible from the outside, much like the body of a jellyfish. C – California C – Sea C – See

• Invitation, Guest List Only, Intimate After Party at The Thompson Hotel from 8 – 10 PM

Sheiki Collections, the Lightbox (7:00 PM)

Contact: Adam Ambrose, The Garage PR, (adam@thegaragepr.com), 323-951-0405

• Confirmed Celebrities: Aubrey O’Day, Vita Guerra, Maria Kanellis

• Influenced by retro-funk and bold color, the theme for the show is “STRAWBERRY ROCK” and will feature Sheiki’s renowned denim along with custom-made pieces feature soft, flowing construction and vibrant fabrics

Whitley Kros, the Main Tent (8:00 PM)

Contact: Mike Vargas, People’s Revolution (requests@peoplesrevolution.com)
• Confirmed Celebrities: Selena Gomez, Bijou Phillips, Giovanni Ribisi, Patricia Arquette, Danny Masterson (DJ Mom Jeans), Dania Ramirez, The cast of the hit CW show Privilege: Anne Archer, Joanna Garcia, Lucy Hale, Kristina Apgar, Ashley Newbrough and more

Quite honestly, I have no idea who any of these celebs are. My mind is unfettered with visions of getting sound bites or taking their photo. Unless it were Doris Day from 1962, John Wayne from 1970, Clint Eastwood, Meryl Streep, Elizabeth Taylor from 1954 .... I doubt I'd be awestruck. As it is, I'll amble around, doing what I do --listening, watching and looking at the fashion. I won't be there long. My officer deploys Tuesday, and every minute I can spend at home is one that I'm taking. (And let me say, the PR people have been super nice).